Question 1: 

From Elijah:
I’m planning on building a floating media cabinet out of 5/4 cherry. The basic idea of the cabinet is an open box that looks like you can look through to the wall. However, it will actually have a false back made of 1/4” MDF painted the same color as the wall to hide all of the wires.
For this project I like the clean look of miter joints, but I am worried that it will not be strong enough. The cabinet will be about 48 inches wide, 10 inches tall, and 14 inches deep. Do I need to reinforce the miters somehow or will glueing in the false back strengthening it sufficiently?

• Strong and Handsome: Half-Blind Mitered Dovetails
• How to Cut Half-Blind Mitered Dovetails
• 3-D Shelves Enliven Any Room
• Add Muscle To Your Miters

Question 2:

From Reg:
I’m trying to make bird’s eye maple legs that have face grain on all four sides.  Unlike (for eg.) white oak laminated legs, the side grain on bird’s eye is obtrusively different and a lamination would be obvious if done in the white oak manner of laminating only on two sides.  So I think I need four-sided laminations, which seems to mean mitered laminations. What is the best way to go about this? I am assuming some core 4-square stock is the starting point. These are going to be Krenov-type legs, so thinly laminating finished leg seems out of the question.

Segment: All-Time Favorite Tool 

Mike: Holdfast

• Get a grip on your work

Ben: CNC used as a pin router

• The Pin Router

Anissa: Her marking gauges

• Shopmade Cutting Gauge
• Tool Test: Marking Gauges

Question 3:

From Dave:
What machinery can be bought vintage and what should be bought new(er_)? It seems as though this kind of discussion is all but exhausted when it comes to hand tools but I don't hear as much about the bigger purchases in the shop.
For instance, not much has changed for drill presses, so an old and stout model seems like a chance to save some money. Meanwhile, it's clear that table saws have improved dramatically with regards to safety and dust collection, so if a SawStop is attainable, I should budget accordingly. But what are your thoughts about bandsaws, jointers, planers, lathes, and the like? Are some types of shop equipment less vulnerable to the risks of buying used?

• Used tools are this woodworker’s best friend

Question 4:

From Frank:
I am making several MDF plinths for an upcoming exhibit. They are 16" square. I mitered the edges so the only visible end gain is at the top. I’m looking for painting suggestions. Some videos say to use Zinsser BIN, and others say to just use regular drywall type primer, then lightly sand before applying primary color. Do you have any suggestions that would steer me in the proper direction?

• MDF edge, end grain prep, Edgetech

Every two weeks, a team of Fine Woodworking staffers answers questions from readers on Shop Talk Live, Fine Woodworking‘s biweekly podcast. Send your woodworking questions to shoptalk@taunton.com for consideration in the regular broadcast! Our continued existence relies upon listener support. So if you enjoy the show, be sure to leave us a five-star rating and maybe even a nice comment on our iTunes page.

Question 1: 

From Chase:

I have an old 13" hitachi planer I got from craigslist many years ago.  It has served me well but is starting to have issues. 13 inches has been useful, but at times I wish it was wider.  In your experience is it worth the extra money to buy something bigger, or should I stick with a more reasonable choice like DW735?  I have 220v access and floor space, so that isn't an issue. I am in my 30s, have been woodworking for ~10 years. I would like to keep woodworking into my 80s, so I can justify a longer term investment.  I can afford a 1.5 or 2k tool, but could buy something else if I stuck with a cheaper planer.  

• Segemented Cutterheads Change the Game 

 Question 2:

From Martin:

I know Mike likes to have a small offset between the rails and stiles of his frame-and-panel doors. But how does he then avoid chipping the unsupported inside corners of the stiles when planing the top and bottom of the door to fit the opening?

• How to Fit an Inset Door - Systematic approach yields perfect results every time 

• Install Inset Doors With Ease - Four-step process uses the jointer and tablesaw to guarantee a perfect fit

Segment: All Time Favorite Tool of All Time

Barry: SketchUp

• How To Create New SketchUp Textures For Your Models 

Mike: Suizan Japanese Saws and DFM Dowel Plate

• Japanese Sew Overview with Andrea Hunter

Ben: Shopmade Hot Pipe Bender

• Video: Hot Pipe Bender

Question 3:

From RobGoSlow on YouTube:

I'm not sure where to submit questions for the podcast but I have one: I'm a very new wood worker with a lower end contractor table saw. Obviously things like the blade angle and fence are not very precise but I want to know what sources of error are there to look out for? What are the types of error you're concerned about with a cheap table saw? 

• Portable Saws

Question 4:

From Capt. Zachary J. Daniels:

I want to buy a block plane from Lie-Nielsen.  I know Mike is a fan of the adjustable mouth block plane.  However, I also remember Mike and Matt Kenney having a spirited debate where Matt was extolling the virtues of the rabbeting block plane. I can’t seem to find the original discussion between Matt and Mike.  Instead of listening to the entire catalog again, (and without Matt around to defend himself) I’m interested to hear Mike’s opinion on why he prefers the adjustable mouth block plane over the rabbeting block plane.

Right now, I only want to buy one block plane as I also have my eye on the No. 62 low angle jack.    

Thanks for the show and keep up the great work!  I became an unlimited member after listening to several of the podcasts, so keep the content coming and inspiring others! 

• Rabbet Planes Are Real Shop Workhorses
• The Best Way to Fit Tenons

Every two weeks, a team of Fine Woodworking staffers answers questions from readers on Shop Talk Live, Fine Woodworking‘s biweekly podcast. Send your woodworking questions to shoptalk@taunton.com for consideration in the regular broadcast! Our continued existence relies upon listener support. So if you enjoy the show, be sure to leave us a five-star rating and maybe even a nice comment on our iTunes page.

For more than 25 years GreenWood has worked with artisans in Honduras and the Peruvian Amazon to produce high-quality wood products from well-managed forests. They train woodworkers to use appropriate tools and technologies, and connect their products to good markets.

The GreenWood Carver's Mallets are available at LeeValley.com.

Support GreenWood's efforts by heading over to their GoFundMe page.

Rollie Johnson and Justin Fink join Tom, Barry, and Ben to discuss new tools being shown at the AWFS fair in Las Vegas

Danish Modern Desk with Tim Rousseau

Question 1: 

From Devin:
Over the years of listening to your show, reading Fine Woodworking, and watching instructional videos, I’ve heard a million different suggestions for how long to let a glue-up sit before you take the clamps off. Ranging from “a little while” -whatever that is?- to overnight, and everything in between. Do you guys have any good rules of thumb for drying time?

• Strategies for Squeeze-out
• How to Tame Tricky Glue-Ups
• How to Apply Wiping Varnish

Question 2:

From the Fine Woodworking forum by forum member NewAndGreen:
I’d like to apply a water based topcoat to two white oak chairs I’ve sanded. I was interested in using General Finishes water-based topcoat, but don’t know if I should go with the flat or the satin finish. I have read that GF’s satin is shinier than most. Is that true?  (I put a coat of Minwax Satin Polycrylic on one and liked the look, but I’m looking for a better product .) I know I don’t want to start mixing. (I’ve already over-complicated the process!) I also know I don’t want a glossy look and not a totally matte look. Ugh. Pictures of two parts of chair attached for reference. Thanks in advance for your advice/thoughts to this new and green refinisher!

Question 3:

Also from Paul:
I  have not heard Rubio Monocoat or Osmo mentioned on the podcast. Have any of you tried Monocoat? Being in the industry professionally myself, and, seeing what other pros are using, Monocoat and Osmo seem to be the two go-to products that many professionals use as their primary oil finish (they’re like the BMW and Mercedes of woodworking it seems). Any experience and/or recommendations there?

• Osmo oil: durable, easy to use, and non-toxic
• Tips and Tricks For Getting A Sheen From an Oil Finish

Price of Osmo Polyx Oil at time of broadcast: .75-Liter=$58.56

Segment: All-Time Favorite Technique of All Time

Mike: Tom McLaughlin’s “cut some off and glue it on the other side” technique

Anissa: Steve Latta’s hinged flips stop

• 3 Handy Stop Blocks
  

Ben: Using metal files to shape difficult woods

• File Joints for a Perfect Fit

Question 4:

From Brendan:
I can’t draw by hand at all.  Not even a little. My 3rd grade drawings look every bit as good as my current attempts. On STL180, you talked about design for about 30 minutes without mentioning cad as a design medium.   I know it’s a scary topic but as a resolution at least one of you should try to design a furniture piece down to the jointery on your computer. The learning curve can be steep but I find that designing on the computer allows me to virtually build the piece without creating any sawdust.

And from Paul:
I don’t know that I’ve ever heard Fusion 360 mentioned on the podcast. I used Sketchup for several years and loved it… however, a few years ago a landed a very complicated project (with cnc work involved), and came to the realization I needed something more sophisticated. Fusion 360 is now such a huge part of my business and can’t imagine ever going back to Sketchup. Having parametric capabilities now seems absolutely necessary. Have any of you ever tried it?

• Design - Click - Build

 Recommendations: 

Anissa - Ted Talk - Rives: The Museum of Four in the Morning
Ben - The Woodworkers Podcast and luthiery podcast Omo

Every two weeks, a team of Fine Woodworking staffers answers questions from readers on Shop Talk Live, Fine Woodworking‘s biweekly podcast. Send your woodworking questions to shoptalk@taunton.com for consideration in the regular broadcast! Our continued existence relies upon listener support. So if you enjoy the show, be sure to leave us a five-star rating and maybe even a nice comment on our iTunes page.

Start Woodworking Season 1 by Matt Berger, Asa Christiana

https://www.finewoodworking.com/videoworkshop/2019/07/start-woodworking-season-1

Question 1:  From Dan: I recently built a pair of desks featured in issue #270. I built them mostly the way Michael Robbins did, however instead of using a domino to construct the top I used pocket screws. I don't own a domino, I opted for a hollow chisel mortiser, and  I thought it would be silly to use a hollow chisel mortise. How do you feel about pocket screws versus slip tenons made with a domino? Both tools make joining pieces of wood much simpler. One uses screws, the other uses wood and glue. One is under $100, and the other is over $1000. They are both faster and easier than traditional joinery. Am I wrong to think if I am not going to use traditional joinery pocket screws and domino slip tenons are interchangeable? I love my hollow-chisel mortiser, and if I'm gonna cheat on it, I’ll just use screws. 

Biscuit Joinery Tips and Tricks Learn how to harness the full potential of your biscuit joiner in Part I of our two-part series By Asa Christiana

Simple Cabinetry with Pocket Hole Joinery Low-cost jig produces basic cabinetry joinery that's easy and strong By Asa Christiana

Question 2: From Chase: I was trying to edge-joint two 10-ft. long boards to make a wide shelf for our closet using a #7 handplane.  Typically, I clamp the boards together and plane the common glue edge until I get an even shaving across both.  I think that the length of the two boards meant there was some variation that the #7 didn't get. I can't imagine trying to joint these on a jointer, even if I had one.  How would you go about making this glue up work?  

Jointing Boards for Dead-Flat Panel Glue-Ups Even if your jointer fence is out of square, this simple tip will ensure perfect edge joints By Michael Pekovich

Segment: All-time favorite tool of all time… for this week Mike: An Exacto knife with a brand new blade Asa: Cordless Trim Routers Ben: James Mursell Travisher (@windsorworkshop)

Build a Simple Stool Fast, fun approach to making a comfortable, casual seat By Fabian Fischer #256–Sep/Oct 2016 Issue

Question 3: From Chad, I was just listening to episode 190, and a listener asked about which big tool to buy next, a combo planer/jointer or a band saw. I've heard similar questions on the show before. I'm curious as to why you never mention the idea of investing in a makerspace, shared shop, or tool library?  There are a lot of great examples of makerspaces that give access to fully stocked wood and metal shops for a reasonable membership fee as well as not-for-profit tool libraries that are usually state funded just like normal libraries that allow for the borrowing of tools like books! For someone who's just getting started in woodworking getting access to a full woodshop for a membership fee that wouldn't be enough to buy a single quality power tool might be worth considering!  Maker Spaces:

• https://www.vocademy.com/
• http://www.tinkermill.org/
• https://www.thefoundrybuffalo.org/

Tool Libraries:

• https://www.neptl.org/
• http://www.thetoollibrary.org/

Question 4: From David: I am planning to build some outdoor chairs out of mahogany, and was wondering what finish to apply. I would like something that I don't have to touch up every year.   Or, should leave them unfinished. How does mahogany age in the weather?

Torture Test for Outdoor Finishes We sent five types around the country and found one favorite By Tom Begnal #205–May/June 2009 Issue

 Recommendations: 

Ben - YouTube Channel: arboristBlairGlenn
Mike -  Asa's book - Handmade: A Hands On Guide
Asa -  www.instructables.com

Every two weeks, a team of Fine Woodworking staffers answers questions from readers on Shop Talk Live, Fine Woodworking‘s biweekly podcast. Send your woodworking questions to shoptalk@taunton.com for consideration in the regular broadcast! Our continued existence relies upon listener support. So if you enjoy the show, be sure to leave us a five-star rating and maybe even a nice comment on our iTunes page.

Dovetailing episodes from Chris Gochnour's Enfiled Cupboard Video Workshop:

	Ep 4a: Case Dovetails – Tails
	Ep 4b: Case Dovetails – Pins
	Ep 4c: Handcut Rabbets and Dovetail Fitting

Video: Chris Becksvoort–The Dovetail Master

Question 1:
From Jerrud: I'm making a dresser that is 72" long, 18" deep and 24" high not including legs. For a dresser this size–or any deep piece that is dovetailed–is seasonal wood movement a concern? Plain sawn lumber is cheaper than rift or quartersawn.

Question 2:
From Christian: I’m lucky enough to be expecting my first child, a baby boy, and I’ve always liked the idea of giving him a Lie Nielsen No 1 as a christening present. Recently, someone has suggested it a novelty tool and will be useless to him when he grows up. What alternative premium tools would you suggest as a christening gift?

Question 3:
From Mike: I’m building up my skills slowly by adding one new skill to each project I take on where I can.  I want to try my hand at dovetails one of these days as that new skill. I have two questions:

1. There are a ton of ways I see people doing them. Is there a method you recommend people start with? You recommend people learn to sharpen by picking one method, and sticking with it until you're good at it. Would the same apply to dovetail methods, or should you try a bunch of ways and then go with what you find out you like doing?
2. Should I start with practice joints on scrap wood or incorporate them when I'm actually making a project so there's more at stake and I have to take it more seriously?

	Half-Blind Dovetails Cut by Hand By Christian Becksvoort #250–Nov/Dec 2015 Issue The craftsman’s calling card
	Don’t Fear the Hand-Cut Dovetail (Part 1) By Christian Becksvoort #238–Jan/Feb 2014 Issue For the first time, a modern master reveals every step of his system
	How to Cut and Fit Perfect Dovetail Pins (Part 2) By Christian Becksvoort #239–Mar/Apr 2014 Issue Scribe the tails accurately and the rest is simple handwork
	Hand-Cut Dovetails, Accurate and Fast By Christian Becksvoort #171–July/Aug 2004 Issue A tip from a tails-first guy
	My Favorite Dovetail Tricks By Christian Becksvoort #171–July/Aug 2004 Issue Five ways to increase accuracy and reduce the time it takes to execute this hand-cut joint

Segment: All-Time Favorite Technique

• Barry: Using blue tape as a shim
• Ben: When you're done cutting an odd angle, cut it one more time on a piece of scrap so you can recall the angle
• Mike: Full-size mockups

Question 4:
From Yves: I have just made my first checkerboard (walnut and maple) inlay strip which is intended for a cherry end table top. When sanding, the strip cracked along its length and I discovered that I had done a poor job of the clamping. The cracked section, which is about  4-5 inches long on one side of the checkerboard strip appears to have “lifted” during clamping and there is now an air space under the crack. Any suggestions that might help to save this? I thought perhaps trying to inject some glue under the crack to fill in the space using a needle???

Question 5:  
From David: I’ve recently had the opportunity to revamp my shop and am planning to build a Matt Kenney’s monster workbench. I’ve bought the plans, and watched the videos, but I don’t see how the top is fastened to the stand? Is there something I’m missing? Is it supposed to just sit on top?

Question 6:
From Dave: I love books but dislike most book covers - they're generally too visually noisy! I feel like my living space is full of loud colorful ad copy, or like I'm in a chain bookstore. Do you have any recommendations for ways to keep books in the home that would allow you to conceal the visual clutter? Really, I'm just asking for permission to make a bookcase hidden-door that spins around.

Recommendations:

Barry - Get a camelback for hiking

Ben - Yeti 18-oz. Rambler Bottle with  MagDock Cap

Mike - DFM A2 Steel Dowel Plate by DFM Tool Works

If you are interested in learning more about how you can support Old Sturbridge Village’s cabinet shop, contact their development office at development@osv.org for more information.

Question 1:

From Joseph:
I bought a new house in 2017 and instead of moving a lot of tools, I sold most of them and started over with new ones. There are 2 things I haven't yet invested in  - a router table and a dado stack. I'm primarily a hand tool guy, but I like to use power tools for dados/grooves and rabbets. Currently I am using my tablesaw with a FTG blade to nibble away at them, but I've reached my breaking point and want something a bit faster. I've used both a dado stack and a router table in the past. Both have some pluses and minuses for me; set up time being a major minus, but equally annoying for each. I'm also open to other alternatives that don't include joinery planes. Been there, bought the planes, sold the planes. I'm a lefty, and using planes right handed isn't fun for me.

• Tablesaw Blades for Joinery - Cut joinery faster and cleaner with a set of four blades By Bob Van Dyke #253–Mar/Apr 2016 Issue

Question 2:

From Nick:
I have a question regarding a long distance relationship with a beautiful jointer. I am member of a "local" woodworking guild which has nice shop that is outfitted with a 16" jointer, a few nice planers. Unfortunately, I live a little over 2 hours away and at my home shop I currently only have a DW735 planer and no jointer. I would like to use all this nice equipment to do everything required to get straight, flat and square stock to take home and finish my projects. My concern is that by the time I throw it in the back of the truck and drive 2 hours home I would defeat the purpose. Does wood move that quickly when you're driving 80... ahem.. 70 mph? Can I get home and put in my climate controlled basement shop before I've warped everything out of flat/square? How would weather effect this (i.e. cold dry winter/hot humid summer weather?).

• The Basics of Milling Lumber - Key machines and smart strategy for making boards foursquare By Bob Van Dyke #276-July/August 2019 Issue

Segment: All-Time Favorite Technique
Mike: Peter Galbert using a heat gun to straighten out riven stock Bob: Flush cutting on the tablesaw

• Video: Versatile Tablesaw L-Fence- Build a simple tablesaw fence accessory that handles a wide variety of joinery cuts By Bob Van Dyke

• The Incredible L-Fence - Take your tablesaw to another level with this simple shopmade fence By Bob Van Dyke #237–Tools & Shops 2014 Issue

Ben: Drawing an extra line when sawing on the left side of your layout line

Question 3:  

From Jim:
I am planning to build a sewing table for my wife. The plans call for using cherry plywood for several major panels of the case. While the stability of plywood is certainly an advantage, it is expensive and I like the idea of using glued up panels made from 4/4 stock. What would you do and why?

Recommendations:

Ben - Sharpen your marking gauge, because you know it's dull
Mike -  Get a Soda Stream

Every two weeks, a team of Fine Woodworking staffers answers questions from readers on Shop Talk Live, Fine Woodworking‘s biweekly podcast. Send your woodworking questions to shoptalk@taunton.com for consideration in the regular broadcast! Our continued existence relies upon listener support. So if you enjoy the show, be sure to leave us a five-star rating and maybe even a nice comment on our iTunes page.  

Become a Fine Woodworking Unlimited member today and get instant access to all FineWoodworking.com content. Start your free two week trial here.

Question 1:

From Tom:
I’m now semi-retired and finally have the time to create a decent wood shop. I’ve moved to the Florida panhandle, where there are few hardwood dealers. In late May, I’ll be in Tennessee so I intend to stop in at a hardwood dealer/mill near Nashville. Given the projects on my to do list I’ll be picking up walnut, cherry, and ash. I also have my eye on black locust (for a picnic table), popular, box elder (table legs and aprons), and catalpa (ditto). Given the list of woods on the dealer's inventory list, I feel like a kid in a candy store. Perhaps too much like a kid in a candy store. I’d be interested in your collective wisdom about how one might go about stocking a new shop with wood, especially given the fact that the nearest hardwood dealer for a hobbyist is 5-6 hours away (Atlanta) and I don’t drive through Tennessee regularly enough to stop in at a dealer or mill whenever I need something (they are about 11 hours away). Y’all are fortunate to live where you do from a woodworking perspective, but I’ll take our weather over yours … I have lemons and tangerines on the trees in my front yard. :-)

Question 2:

From Richard:
Have you ever heard of hollowing the backs of western chisels? To speed the process of flattening the back of a chisel, my buddy first hollows the center to a depth of about 1 or 2 thousands of an inch with a dremel sanding flap attachment . The edges and toe are not touched by the sander. My buddy says that because the hollow is so slight, it is as easy to re-flatten the back and establish a new flat spot as it is to re-establish the cutting edge of a worn Japanese chisel.

• Here is the video that Anissa mentions, which she now admits he obviously had running in the dremel

Segment: Smooth Move

Ben: Drilling a depth-indication hole on the wrong side.
Barry: Trimming the horns of a frame and panel too soon.
Anissa: Forgetting that two years ago she grain matched the tops of three cabinets, then ignoring the grain match while fitting the cabinets with drawers.

Question 3:

From Jesse:
I’ve recently started the journey into furniture making.  I have a sliding miter saw and a very old table saw that is only good for rough cutting. I’m looking to purchase a band saw or jointer/planer combo. I only have room for one and only 110v availability. I am using hand saws and hand planes to do most of the dimensioning of my lumber. For a beginner, who has limited space and time in the shop, would a band saw or jointer/planer be more advantageous? I’d appreciate any guidance you can offer to ensure my next big purchase is a wise choice and will be the most practical.

Recommendations:

Ben - Prismacolor Premier Pencil Sharpener
Barry - Kettlebells for holding panel glue ups flat
Anissa -  A rock 

Every two weeks, a team of Fine Woodworking staffers answers questions from readers on Shop Talk Live, Fine Woodworking‘s biweekly podcast. Send your woodworking questions to shoptalk@taunton.com for consideration in the regular broadcast! Our continued existence relies upon listener support. So if you enjoy the show, be sure to leave us a five-star rating and maybe even a nice comment on our iTunes page.

Guest 1: Joe Taylor - Director of Sales for Rikon Joe gave us the ins and outs of a few of Rikon's new products

Model 10-326DVR: 14″ Deluxe Bandsaw with Smart Motor DVR Control

Guest 2: Nancy Hiller

From Jim: In terms of their aesthetic value, is there a line for you between fine furniture and cabinetry?

From Jeff: If you could only design, or build, which would it be and why?

Free Plan: Architectural Wall Cabinet Arts and crafts maker presents a fresh twist on a period design by Nancy R. Hiller #270–Sep/Oct 2018 Issue

The Pro's Corner Professional woodworkers sharing the information, for professional woodworkers new and old

Guest 3: Christian Becksvoort

From Scott: What are your top five records at the moment?

From Josh: What Shaker element do see reproduced poorly in modern versions of the classics?

From Erick: What finish are you using on most of your pieces, polyurethane or oil? And why?

A True Oil Finish Nontoxic and easily repaired, this traditional finish is still worth considering by Christian Becksvoort #152–Nov/Dec 2001 Issue

The Classic Shaker Style Discover the difference between the masterful and the near-miss by Christian Becksvoort #229–Nov/Dec 2012 Issue

Guest 4: Vic Tesolin

From Kevin: What aspects of woodworking do you see most newer students totally over think?

From Steve: Awhile ago, you posted a video of a tattoo that had leaves representing your favorite woods to work with. For those of us who are crap at identifying tree leaves, what are your favorite woods to build with?

4 Planes for Joinery Get perfect dadoes, grooves, rabbets, and tenons in no time By Vic Tesolin #246–Mar/Apr 2015 Issue

7 Questions with Vic Tesolin Simple really, we ask Vic questions, and he answers them

Every two weeks, a team of Fine Woodworking staffers answers questions from readers on Shop Talk Live, Fine Woodworking‘s biweekly podcast. Send your woodworking questions to shoptalk@taunton.com for consideration in the regular broadcast! Our continued existence relies upon listener support. So if you enjoy the show, be sure to leave us a five-star rating and maybe even a nice comment on our iTunes page.