Fri, 18 January 2019
Check out our newest video workshop, Enfield Cupboard with Hand Tools featuring Chris Gochnour and be sure to help us make our video workshops even better by filling out this quick survey. Question 1: From Dean: I have an enjoyable dilemma. I am building a garage with adjacent shop space at our north home. The shop is 200 sq-ft, one third the size of my St. Paul shop, and thus creates a challenge adapting to a small space. I have been devouring all the FWW articles on small shops and believe I can make this space workable but I will have to make some concessions, mainly my tablesaw, jointer, and planer. Will I be satisfied and served by a portable, contractor-style table saw and a combination jointer-planer? Question 2: From Tanc: Is there a guideline for when stretchers are needed to strengthen a piece? I am looking to build an entryway table from oak that is 32-in. high, 60-in. long, 12-in. deep, with a 2 ½-in. apron and 2-in. legs that taper down to 1-in. I prefer simple designs, and would rather not have stretchers.
Ben's mockup of Tanc's table with the given dimensions: Benside Table: Segment: Smooth Moves
Question 3: When I set up my workshop, I positioned the bench facing a south-facing window and installed fluorescents directly above the bench at about eight feet above the floor. If I have a board on edge, any markings on the side facing my body are difficult to see because that area is in shadow. I want to avoid using task lights wherever possible, as they just get in the way. I'm thinking that more overhead lighting is the answer. Do you have any thoughts about where this should be positioned to minimize shadow areas when working at the bench? Question 4: From David: I am baffled that some ash stock I milled a couple months ago is now nearly impossible to plane. I cut and milled the ash for a small box a while ago. It was wonderful to work with and easy to plane. I put the pieces aside to enjoy the far too short Minnesota summer. I kept it in the same place all my wood stock lives; my basement workshop. I was looking forward to getting back to work on the box. I decided to plane all the pieces again, assuming it wouldn’t be flat and square as it was months ago. I was dumbfounded that it was nearly impossible to plane. I used the exact same plane I used originally. I ended up resharpening the blade twice and adjusted it to take the finest possible shaving. Still it would stick and chatter across the board and leave tear out in the middle of smooth grain. To make sure I wasn’t hallucinating, I tried planing some oak and some twisty walnut. It performed beautifully. It was as though it had developed a skin of steel in the time since I first milled it. Any ideas about what/why this happened? Recommendations:
Every two weeks, a team of Fine Woodworking staffers answers questions from readers on Shop Talk Live, Fine Woodworking‘s biweekly podcast. Send your woodworking questions to shoptalk@taunton.com for consideration in the regular broadcast! Our continued existence relies upon listener support. So if you enjoy the show, be sure to leave us a five-star rating and maybe even a nice comment on our iTunes page. |
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Fri, 18 January 2019
Check out our newest video workshop, Enfield Cupboard with Hand Tools featuring Chris Gochnour and be sure to help us make our video workshops even better by filling out this quick survey. Question 1: From Dean: I have an enjoyable dilemma. I am building a garage with adjacent shop space at our north home. The shop is 200 sq-ft, one third the size of my St. Paul shop, and thus creates a challenge adapting to a small space. I have been devouring all the FWW articles on small shops and believe I can make this space workable but I will have to make some concessions, mainly my tablesaw, jointer, and planer. Will I be satisfied and served by a portable, contractor-style table saw and a combination jointer-planer? Question 2: From Tanc: Is there a guideline for when stretchers are needed to strengthen a piece? I am looking to build an entryway table from oak that is 32-in. high, 60-in. long, 12-in. deep, with a 2 ½-in. apron and 2-in. legs that taper down to 1-in. I prefer simple designs, and would rather not have stretchers.
Ben's mockup of Tanc's table with the given dimensions: Benside Table: Segment: Smooth Moves
Question 3: When I set up my workshop, I positioned the bench facing a south-facing window and installed fluorescents directly above the bench at about eight feet above the floor. If I have a board on edge, any markings on the side facing my body are difficult to see because that area is in shadow. I want to avoid using task lights wherever possible, as they just get in the way. I'm thinking that more overhead lighting is the answer. Do you have any thoughts about where this should be positioned to minimize shadow areas when working at the bench? Question 4: From David: I am baffled that some ash stock I milled a couple months ago is now nearly impossible to plane. I cut and milled the ash for a small box a while ago. It was wonderful to work with and easy to plane. I put the pieces aside to enjoy the far too short Minnesota summer. I kept it in the same place all my wood stock lives; my basement workshop. I was looking forward to getting back to work on the box. I decided to plane all the pieces again, assuming it wouldn’t be flat and square as it was months ago. I was dumbfounded that it was nearly impossible to plane. I used the exact same plane I used originally. I ended up resharpening the blade twice and adjusted it to take the finest possible shaving. Still it would stick and chatter across the board and leave tear out in the middle of smooth grain. To make sure I wasn’t hallucinating, I tried planing some oak and some twisty walnut. It performed beautifully. It was as though it had developed a skin of steel in the time since I first milled it. Any ideas about what/why this happened? Recommendations:
Every two weeks, a team of Fine Woodworking staffers answers questions from readers on Shop Talk Live, Fine Woodworking‘s biweekly podcast. Send your woodworking questions to shoptalk@taunton.com for consideration in the regular broadcast! Our continued existence relies upon listener support. So if you enjoy the show, be sure to leave us a five-star rating and maybe even a nice comment on our iTunes page. |
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Fri, 4 January 2019
Question 1: From Cameron: I’m thinking of making a bench inspired by Mark Edmundson’s “Modern Danish Cord Bench” from issue #194-Nov/Dec 2007. I’m want to stretch the width to 6’ to use at my 7’ table. Will the front and rear rails be enough to support 4 well fed adults or will I have a hilarious story to tell for the next 30 year about the thanksgiving collapse of 2019?
Question 2: From Mark: I saw a video where Matt Wajda drew a tool chest, full scale by hand. Is this a common method? I draw Architecture for a living, I am tired of drawing. I’m not interested in SketchUp, I already spend way too much time with AutoCAD. Woodworking is my release. I completely understand that you can work issues out on paper long before you even touch a board. I am curious about designing without drawing. Does anyone you know use a design process that does not involve drawing?
Segment: Shop Resolutions
Question 3: From Andy: Any idea how to go about achieving the finish in the attached image? I’ve never seen a finish like this one that’s pretty vibrant, yet maintains the appearance of the grain. Is it just a watered down paint? Question 4: From Bob: I have some Japanese chisels that I’m starting to use. About 3/16” behind the edge of the blade is a cove. When you grind back to that cove, the back will no longer be flat. Do you have to toss the chisel out at that point? Every two weeks, a team of Fine Woodworking staffers answers questions from readers on Shop Talk Live, Fine Woodworking‘s biweekly podcast. Send your woodworking questions to shoptalk@taunton.com for consideration in the regular broadcast! Our continued existence relies upon listener support. So if you enjoy the show, be sure to leave us a five-star rating and maybe even a nice comment on our iTunes page. |
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Fri, 21 December 2018
Question 1: From Tony: We hear so much talk about Lie Nielsen, Veritas, and Stanley hand planes but, I have a Millers Falls No. 8 that i picked up from an Antique store, that works really well. I don't think I’ve ever heard the Millers Falls Name be mentioned on the Podcast, so I am wondering if they’re any good? They seem to have been in contention with Stanley and they are American made from New England no less, since 1868! Question 2: From Matt: I have been wanting to do a project using drawbore mortise and tenon joints. Is it a bad idea to attempt this type of joint in a softer woods like cherry or walnut, rather than oak.
Segment: Smooth Move
Question 3: From Bob: Can someone explain the difference between a scrub plane and a smooth plane? They seem similar in size and construction. Question 4: From Phillip: I am looking to build a dining room table to a friend of mine, and am wondering what type of wood would be best to use. I have narrowed it down to White Oak, Cherry, and Walnut. The friend that I am making this for is a military man, and so gets stationed at different bases around the country every few years. My main concern is the table warping or splitting due to the drastic location and environmental changes that he will come across. Obviously, being a dining room table it also must be sturdy and not be too prone to scratches, dings, etc. White Oak is very wear resistant, but has a medium-high shrinkage value. Cherry is pretty stable once dried, but is softer and may get more dings. Walnut seems to be the middle road, being harder and less susceptible to scratches than Cherry but less likely to shrink/warp than White Oak. What type of wood would you suggest that is going to be resistant to scratches and dings, yet won't warp or split in drastic climate changes? Recommendations: Barry - Dedicated Shop Shoes Every two weeks, a team of Fine Woodworking staffers answers questions from readers on Shop Talk Live, Fine Woodworking‘s biweekly podcast. Send your woodworking questions to shoptalk@taunton.com for consideration in the regular broadcast! Our continued existence relies upon listener support. So if you enjoy the show, be sure to leave us a five-star rating and maybe even a nice comment on our iTunes page. |
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Fri, 7 December 2018
To enter to win Bob Van Dyke's sharpening box from issue #254:
We’ll pick a winner December 21, 2018. Question 1: From Amy: I've been using a piece of vegetable tanned leather with green waxy honing compound as a strop. I start by rubbing compound onto the shiny side of the leather. However, when I go to strop my carving knives, the pressure from my blade compresses the compound and it flakes off. Is there something wrong with my compound, or am I doing something wrong? Question 2: From Matt: I have some 10-in. wide 8/4 African Mahogany that I have been resawing into thinner boards. I start by jointing one face then one edge and then resawing, usually down the middle. There is a good amount of tension in the boards, so after resawing they have a decent twist. Do I need to let the boards re-acclimate before I re-joint and plane them, or can I do that immediately? Also, would I be better off not jointing the face and resawing to a center-line rather than using the bandsaw fence. It seems like a waste of time getting that face flat just so I can use the bandsaw fence. All Time Favorite Technique Bob: Fixing a mistake and perfectly matching both the face grain and end grain. Ben: Using a sawbench to support the ramps when moving machinery off the back of a pickup truck Mike: Using a bird-mouth joint to create dividers Question 3: From Matt (in Australia): I see many of the worlds best woodworkers only apply glue to one mating surface of a joint not both as advocated by Hoadley. When is it acceptable to only apply glue to one surface of a mating joint? Question 4: From Anthony: Last couple years I’ve been on the hunt for an 8” jointer and just recently I was able to secure a CL purchase on a 12” jointer that I’m pretty excited about. It’s a Bridgewood 12” 5hp that I picked up a few hours away from a now retired door maker. As with most home woodworkers, my jointing experience has been on a six inch jointer. What are the potential areas of concern with a larger jointer? In general, with a jointer, what leads up to an accident? Is it simply being unaware of your hands and proper use? Recommendations: Ben - David Johnson's Instagram Page Bob - His own Instagram page Mike - Go buy a fresh bottle of glue Every two weeks, a team of Fine Woodworking staffers answers questions from readers on Shop Talk Live, Fine Woodworking‘s biweekly podcast. Send your woodworking questions to shoptalk@taunton.com for consideration in the regular broadcast! Our continued existence relies upon listener support. So if you enjoy the show, be sure to leave us a five-star rating and maybe even a nice comment on our iTunes page. |
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Fri, 30 November 2018
For more information on The Florida School of Woodwork: http://www.schoolofwoodwork.com/ For more infomation on Fine Woodworking HANDS On 2019 in Tampa, February 1-3: http://bit.ly/2Pbh03U Kate Swann is a lifetime woodworker, furnituremaker, and artist that known nation wide for her elegant custom furniture designs. Her unique works have been featured in magazines and act as functional furniture pieces in boardrooms, homes and retail spaces around the country. Renowned for her exquisite textural and surface embellishment work, Kate draws from her time spent wandering the globe as a shepherdess, outward bound instructor and translator. As the founder and director of the Florida School of Woodworking, she oversees the curriculum, and mission of the school. Her knowledge and skills come from many years of running Franklin St Fine Woodwork, a custom design/build company she co-founded over twenty years ago. Passionate about the artisanal crafts she works to inspire and motivate students to achieve new levels of accomplishment in the fine woodworking and to enjoy the value of incorporating artisanal work in their lives. We're excited to have the Florida School of Woodwork as the location for our first ever hands-on event, February 1-3, 2019. Fine Woodworking’s HANDS ON is a unique opportunity to expand your skills through personalized instruction from a diverse group of experts in an intimate setting. Every two weeks, a team of Fine Woodworking staffers answers questions from readers on Shop Talk Live, Fine Woodworking‘s biweekly podcast. Send your woodworking questions to shoptalk@taunton.com for consideration in the regular broadcast! Our continued existence relies upon listener support. So if you enjoy the show, be sure to leave us a five-star rating and maybe even a nice comment on our iTunes page. |
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Fri, 23 November 2018
Question 1: From Matt: I have 3 questions about getting into kumiko: 1.) What (Japanese) chisel would you recommend starting with? 2.) What online/printed resources would you recommend?
3.) Any thoughts on preparing the strips without a tablesaw or drum sander? Question 2: From Martti: What is it in your preferred kumiko construction that ensures trouble-free cleanup over time for quite some years and decades? Segment: All Time Favorite Technique Ben - Loading magnets into a brass tube in order to keep the polarity correct Mike - Sharpening a chisel to 20º-25º for paring end-grain on pine Question 3: From Al: I am having some trouble laying out the pins and tales on the Wenge in the more traditional way, unlike what Mike shows. Wenge is extremely hard and not at all forgiving and the grain tends to be a problem in scribing the wood. Perhaps this is why he choose to do this with the table saw and router methods. Where can you get the table saw blade and the router bit to do it like Mike. Every two weeks, a team of Fine Woodworking staffers answers questions from readers on Shop Talk Live, Fine Woodworking‘s biweekly podcast. Send your woodworking questions to shoptalk@taunton.com for consideration in the regular broadcast! Our continued existence relies upon listener support. So if you enjoy the show, be sure to leave us a five-star rating and maybe even a nice comment on our iTunes page. |
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Fri, 9 November 2018
Leave a comment on this episode's show notes page to enter to win a one of three Shop Talk Live t-shirts! - http://bit.ly/2JzIJZb Question 1: From Damon: It’s time for me to start surfacing rough boards, but I don’t have the money to buy BOTH a jointer and a planer. I do have a plan for milling stock without the jointer, please let me know what you think:
Do you know of a better way to mill to four square without a jointer?
Question 2: From Granary: What are your thoughts on resawing at the tablesaw? I'm terrified of it, but was recently and reluctantly exposed to it as a method for expediting the process at the shop. But, as an intermediate woodworker, I can only see downsides to resawing at the tablesaw. While taking a class, after resawing a few times at the tablesaw, I had to request that I not do it. I felt like a total wuss, but at the same time, when I was holding the stock, and the saw was running, I just felt like it was going to go wrong. Segment: All Time Favorite Technique Anissa: Gluing on clamping blocks for miters
Ben: Using CA glue to glue a piece to an backer board in order to plane it thinner than 1/4-in. Mike: Using shims to perfectly offset a piece
Question 3: Esoteric lumber questions! From Craig: Needed some 16/4 ash stock for table legs. At my local lumberyard, I selected from a bin that contained a mix of flat, riff and quarter sawn boards, I pulled what I’d thought was an ideal piece, had the yard guy write up the tag, and then proceeded to the office. I noticed on the tag that the width of my selection was ~ 12/4. I suggested that I should pay the price for 12/4, rather than 16/4, but they were unpersuaded. It was foolish of me to suggest this, as at this yard the invisible sign on the wall reads “The customer is always wrong” Love the show; Anissa “Long Pause” Kapsales is a nice addition From Cameron: When breaking down a larger board do you prefer long or wide off cuts? After listening to the pod for years now I’m obsessed with getting the best grain selection but don’t want to waste a whole board to get one piece. As an example, I have a board that is 8-in. wide and 4-ft. long. From that I need piece that is 3-in. By 8-in. The best piece is on the edge of the board, 6-in. from the end.
Every two weeks, a team of Fine Woodworking staffers answers questions from readers on Shop Talk Live, Fine Woodworking‘s biweekly podcast. Send your woodworking questions to shoptalk@taunton.com for consideration in the regular broadcast! Our continued existence relies upon listener support. So if you enjoy the show, be sure to leave us a five-star rating and maybe even a nice comment on our iTunes page. |
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Fri, 26 October 2018
Just a test, nothing to see here
Category:general
-- posted at: 11:44am EDT
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Fri, 26 October 2018
Head over to ShopTalkLive.com and leave a comment on this episode's show-notes page for your chance to win a one-year membership to Fine Woodworking's new UNLIMITED membership! We’ll pick a winner November 9, 2018. Make sure you check out The Craft of Veneering by Craig Thibodeau Question 1: From Tom: I am building a credenza that will be 84" long, with solid walnut top and bottom. If the back is made of plywood (1/2" or 3/4"), is it ok to glue the back to the solid top and bottom pieces, or will differential wood movement cause this joint to fail? Question 2: From Ron: What are your opinions on the various panel clamps available (ie Damstom) and are any worth buying? In most of your videos/articles I see shop made wooden cauls and lots of bar clamps, but I’m looking for a less stressful way since I struggle to keep things flat as I rush to get clamps on before the glue sets up.
Segment: All Time Favorite Tool Ben: Sharpening stone box Mike: Associate editor, Barry Dima, because he's a kiss up and gave him a set of dividers Tom: Small hammer he STOLE from the FWW shop Question 3: From Craig: I am going to build Garrett Hack's huntboard from issue #187. One thing I am unsure of is how to attach the drawer runners. The only thing shown in the text and plan is that they are tenoned at the front to the rails, with no mention of the back. They can't be mortised into the back panel like the kickers due to the assembly order, and simply gluing them to the sides would lead to cross grain gluing issues. I've thought of a couple ways I could attach them, one being sitting on cleats attached to the case back, or screwed into the side partitions with elongated holes. Do you guys have any thoughts or know how Garrett secured these pieces?
Every two weeks, a team of Fine Woodworking staffers answers questions from readers on Shop Talk Live, Fine Woodworking‘s biweekly podcast. Send your woodworking questions to shoptalk@taunton.com for consideration in the regular broadcast! Our continued existence relies upon listener support. So if you enjoy the show, be sure to leave us a five-star rating and maybe even a nice comment on our iTunes page. |
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