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The North Jersey Woodworkers Association or NJWA for short is a community of woodworkers of all types and levels of experience. We have some professionals, some beginners and every skill level in between. Our goal is to share our experience with one another and to support and grow the woodworking community in the Northern New Jersey area. Regardless of woodworking interest or level of experience, we invite you to join us. For directions, membership information and club activities follow this link: About NJWA.

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John, Barry, and Ben discuss workbench stretchers, basement shop vs. garage shop, and a new chapter begins in the round vs. square mortise debate

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Shop Talk Live show notes are available here.

Question 1: 

From Elijah:
I’m planning on building a floating media cabinet out of 5/4 cherry. The basic idea of the cabinet is an open box that looks like you can look through to the wall. However, it will actually have a false back made of 1/4” MDF painted the same color as the wall to hide all of the wires.
For this project I like the clean look of miter joints, but I am worried that it will not be strong enough. The cabinet will be about 48 inches wide, 10 inches tall, and 14 inches deep. Do I need to reinforce the miters somehow or will glueing in the false back strengthening it sufficiently?

• Strong and Handsome: Half-Blind Mitered Dovetails
• How to Cut Half-Blind Mitered Dovetails
• 3-D Shelves Enliven Any Room
• Add Muscle To Your Miters

Question 2:

From Reg:
I’m trying to make bird’s eye maple legs that have face grain on all four sides.  Unlike (for eg.) white oak laminated legs, the side grain on bird’s eye is obtrusively different and a lamination would be obvious if done in the white oak manner of laminating only on two sides.  So I think I need four-sided laminations, which seems to mean mitered laminations. What is the best way to go about this? I am assuming some core 4-square stock is the starting point. These are going to be Krenov-type legs, so thinly laminating finished leg seems out of the question.

Segment: All-Time Favorite Tool 

Mike: Holdfast

• Get a grip on your work

Ben: CNC used as a pin router

• The Pin Router

Anissa: Her marking gauges

• Shopmade Cutting Gauge
• Tool Test: Marking Gauges

Question 3:

From Dave:
What machinery can be bought vintage and what should be bought new(er_)? It seems as though this kind of discussion is all but exhausted when it comes to hand tools but I don't hear as much about the bigger purchases in the shop.
For instance, not much has changed for drill presses, so an old and stout model seems like a chance to save some money. Meanwhile, it's clear that table saws have improved dramatically with regards to safety and dust collection, so if a SawStop is attainable, I should budget accordingly. But what are your thoughts about bandsaws, jointers, planers, lathes, and the like? Are some types of shop equipment less vulnerable to the risks of buying used?

• Used tools are this woodworker’s best friend

Question 4:

From Frank:
I am making several MDF plinths for an upcoming exhibit. They are 16" square. I mitered the edges so the only visible end gain is at the top. I’m looking for painting suggestions. Some videos say to use Zinsser BIN, and others say to just use regular drywall type primer, then lightly sand before applying primary color. Do you have any suggestions that would steer me in the proper direction?

• MDF edge, end grain prep, Edgetech

Every two weeks, a team of Fine Woodworking staffers answers questions from readers on Shop Talk Live, Fine Woodworking‘s biweekly podcast. Send your woodworking questions to shoptalk@taunton.com for consideration in the regular broadcast! Our continued existence relies upon listener support. So if you enjoy the show, be sure to leave us a five-star rating and maybe even a nice comment on our iTunes page.

Question 1: 

From Chase:

I have an old 13" hitachi planer I got from craigslist many years ago.  It has served me well but is starting to have issues. 13 inches has been useful, but at times I wish it was wider.  In your experience is it worth the extra money to buy something bigger, or should I stick with a more reasonable choice like DW735?  I have 220v access and floor space, so that isn't an issue. I am in my 30s, have been woodworking for ~10 years. I would like to keep woodworking into my 80s, so I can justify a longer term investment.  I can afford a 1.5 or 2k tool, but could buy something else if I stuck with a cheaper planer.  

• Segemented Cutterheads Change the Game 

 Question 2:

From Martin:

I know Mike likes to have a small offset between the rails and stiles of his frame-and-panel doors. But how does he then avoid chipping the unsupported inside corners of the stiles when planing the top and bottom of the door to fit the opening?

• How to Fit an Inset Door - Systematic approach yields perfect results every time 

• Install Inset Doors With Ease - Four-step process uses the jointer and tablesaw to guarantee a perfect fit

Segment: All Time Favorite Tool of All Time

Barry: SketchUp

• How To Create New SketchUp Textures For Your Models 

Mike: Suizan Japanese Saws and DFM Dowel Plate

• Japanese Sew Overview with Andrea Hunter

Ben: Shopmade Hot Pipe Bender

• Video: Hot Pipe Bender

Question 3:

From RobGoSlow on YouTube:

I'm not sure where to submit questions for the podcast but I have one: I'm a very new wood worker with a lower end contractor table saw. Obviously things like the blade angle and fence are not very precise but I want to know what sources of error are there to look out for? What are the types of error you're concerned about with a cheap table saw? 

• Portable Saws

Question 4:

From Capt. Zachary J. Daniels:

I want to buy a block plane from Lie-Nielsen.  I know Mike is a fan of the adjustable mouth block plane.  However, I also remember Mike and Matt Kenney having a spirited debate where Matt was extolling the virtues of the rabbeting block plane. I can’t seem to find the original discussion between Matt and Mike.  Instead of listening to the entire catalog again, (and without Matt around to defend himself) I’m interested to hear Mike’s opinion on why he prefers the adjustable mouth block plane over the rabbeting block plane.

Right now, I only want to buy one block plane as I also have my eye on the No. 62 low angle jack.    

Thanks for the show and keep up the great work!  I became an unlimited member after listening to several of the podcasts, so keep the content coming and inspiring others! 

• Rabbet Planes Are Real Shop Workhorses
• The Best Way to Fit Tenons

Every two weeks, a team of Fine Woodworking staffers answers questions from readers on Shop Talk Live, Fine Woodworking‘s biweekly podcast. Send your woodworking questions to shoptalk@taunton.com for consideration in the regular broadcast! Our continued existence relies upon listener support. So if you enjoy the show, be sure to leave us a five-star rating and maybe even a nice comment on our iTunes page.

For more than 25 years GreenWood has worked with artisans in Honduras and the Peruvian Amazon to produce high-quality wood products from well-managed forests. They train woodworkers to use appropriate tools and technologies, and connect their products to good markets.

The GreenWood Carver's Mallets are available at LeeValley.com.

Support GreenWood's efforts by heading over to their GoFundMe page.

Rollie Johnson and Justin Fink join Tom, Barry, and Ben to discuss new tools being shown at the AWFS fair in Las Vegas

Danish Modern Desk with Tim Rousseau

Question 1: 

From Devin:
Over the years of listening to your show, reading Fine Woodworking, and watching instructional videos, I’ve heard a million different suggestions for how long to let a glue-up sit before you take the clamps off. Ranging from “a little while” -whatever that is?- to overnight, and everything in between. Do you guys have any good rules of thumb for drying time?

• Strategies for Squeeze-out
• How to Tame Tricky Glue-Ups
• How to Apply Wiping Varnish

Question 2:

From the Fine Woodworking forum by forum member NewAndGreen:
I’d like to apply a water based topcoat to two white oak chairs I’ve sanded. I was interested in using General Finishes water-based topcoat, but don’t know if I should go with the flat or the satin finish. I have read that GF’s satin is shinier than most. Is that true?  (I put a coat of Minwax Satin Polycrylic on one and liked the look, but I’m looking for a better product .) I know I don’t want to start mixing. (I’ve already over-complicated the process!) I also know I don’t want a glossy look and not a totally matte look. Ugh. Pictures of two parts of chair attached for reference. Thanks in advance for your advice/thoughts to this new and green refinisher!

Question 3:

Also from Paul:
I  have not heard Rubio Monocoat or Osmo mentioned on the podcast. Have any of you tried Monocoat? Being in the industry professionally myself, and, seeing what other pros are using, Monocoat and Osmo seem to be the two go-to products that many professionals use as their primary oil finish (they’re like the BMW and Mercedes of woodworking it seems). Any experience and/or recommendations there?

• Osmo oil: durable, easy to use, and non-toxic
• Tips and Tricks For Getting A Sheen From an Oil Finish

Price of Osmo Polyx Oil at time of broadcast: .75-Liter=$58.56

Segment: All-Time Favorite Technique of All Time

Mike: Tom McLaughlin’s “cut some off and glue it on the other side” technique

Anissa: Steve Latta’s hinged flips stop

• 3 Handy Stop Blocks
  

Ben: Using metal files to shape difficult woods

• File Joints for a Perfect Fit

Question 4:

From Brendan:
I can’t draw by hand at all.  Not even a little. My 3rd grade drawings look every bit as good as my current attempts. On STL180, you talked about design for about 30 minutes without mentioning cad as a design medium.   I know it’s a scary topic but as a resolution at least one of you should try to design a furniture piece down to the jointery on your computer. The learning curve can be steep but I find that designing on the computer allows me to virtually build the piece without creating any sawdust.

And from Paul:
I don’t know that I’ve ever heard Fusion 360 mentioned on the podcast. I used Sketchup for several years and loved it… however, a few years ago a landed a very complicated project (with cnc work involved), and came to the realization I needed something more sophisticated. Fusion 360 is now such a huge part of my business and can’t imagine ever going back to Sketchup. Having parametric capabilities now seems absolutely necessary. Have any of you ever tried it?

• Design - Click - Build

 Recommendations: 

Anissa - Ted Talk - Rives: The Museum of Four in the Morning
Ben - The Woodworkers Podcast and luthiery podcast Omo

Every two weeks, a team of Fine Woodworking staffers answers questions from readers on Shop Talk Live, Fine Woodworking‘s biweekly podcast. Send your woodworking questions to shoptalk@taunton.com for consideration in the regular broadcast! Our continued existence relies upon listener support. So if you enjoy the show, be sure to leave us a five-star rating and maybe even a nice comment on our iTunes page.

Start Woodworking Season 1 by Matt Berger, Asa Christiana

https://www.finewoodworking.com/videoworkshop/2019/07/start-woodworking-season-1

Question 1:  From Dan: I recently built a pair of desks featured in issue #270. I built them mostly the way Michael Robbins did, however instead of using a domino to construct the top I used pocket screws. I don't own a domino, I opted for a hollow chisel mortiser, and  I thought it would be silly to use a hollow chisel mortise. How do you feel about pocket screws versus slip tenons made with a domino? Both tools make joining pieces of wood much simpler. One uses screws, the other uses wood and glue. One is under $100, and the other is over $1000. They are both faster and easier than traditional joinery. Am I wrong to think if I am not going to use traditional joinery pocket screws and domino slip tenons are interchangeable? I love my hollow-chisel mortiser, and if I'm gonna cheat on it, I’ll just use screws. 

Biscuit Joinery Tips and Tricks Learn how to harness the full potential of your biscuit joiner in Part I of our two-part series By Asa Christiana

Simple Cabinetry with Pocket Hole Joinery Low-cost jig produces basic cabinetry joinery that's easy and strong By Asa Christiana

Question 2: From Chase: I was trying to edge-joint two 10-ft. long boards to make a wide shelf for our closet using a #7 handplane.  Typically, I clamp the boards together and plane the common glue edge until I get an even shaving across both.  I think that the length of the two boards meant there was some variation that the #7 didn't get. I can't imagine trying to joint these on a jointer, even if I had one.  How would you go about making this glue up work?  

Jointing Boards for Dead-Flat Panel Glue-Ups Even if your jointer fence is out of square, this simple tip will ensure perfect edge joints By Michael Pekovich

Segment: All-time favorite tool of all time… for this week Mike: An Exacto knife with a brand new blade Asa: Cordless Trim Routers Ben: James Mursell Travisher (@windsorworkshop)

Build a Simple Stool Fast, fun approach to making a comfortable, casual seat By Fabian Fischer #256–Sep/Oct 2016 Issue

Question 3: From Chad, I was just listening to episode 190, and a listener asked about which big tool to buy next, a combo planer/jointer or a band saw. I've heard similar questions on the show before. I'm curious as to why you never mention the idea of investing in a makerspace, shared shop, or tool library?  There are a lot of great examples of makerspaces that give access to fully stocked wood and metal shops for a reasonable membership fee as well as not-for-profit tool libraries that are usually state funded just like normal libraries that allow for the borrowing of tools like books! For someone who's just getting started in woodworking getting access to a full woodshop for a membership fee that wouldn't be enough to buy a single quality power tool might be worth considering!  Maker Spaces:

• https://www.vocademy.com/
• http://www.tinkermill.org/
• https://www.thefoundrybuffalo.org/

Tool Libraries:

• https://www.neptl.org/
• http://www.thetoollibrary.org/

Question 4: From David: I am planning to build some outdoor chairs out of mahogany, and was wondering what finish to apply. I would like something that I don't have to touch up every year.   Or, should leave them unfinished. How does mahogany age in the weather?

Torture Test for Outdoor Finishes We sent five types around the country and found one favorite By Tom Begnal #205–May/June 2009 Issue

 Recommendations: 

Ben - YouTube Channel: arboristBlairGlenn
Mike -  Asa's book - Handmade: A Hands On Guide
Asa -  www.instructables.com

Every two weeks, a team of Fine Woodworking staffers answers questions from readers on Shop Talk Live, Fine Woodworking‘s biweekly podcast. Send your woodworking questions to shoptalk@taunton.com for consideration in the regular broadcast! Our continued existence relies upon listener support. So if you enjoy the show, be sure to leave us a five-star rating and maybe even a nice comment on our iTunes page.

Dovetailing episodes from Chris Gochnour's Enfiled Cupboard Video Workshop:

	Ep 4a: Case Dovetails – Tails
	Ep 4b: Case Dovetails – Pins
	Ep 4c: Handcut Rabbets and Dovetail Fitting

Video: Chris Becksvoort–The Dovetail Master

Question 1:
From Jerrud: I'm making a dresser that is 72" long, 18" deep and 24" high not including legs. For a dresser this size–or any deep piece that is dovetailed–is seasonal wood movement a concern? Plain sawn lumber is cheaper than rift or quartersawn.

Question 2:
From Christian: I’m lucky enough to be expecting my first child, a baby boy, and I’ve always liked the idea of giving him a Lie Nielsen No 1 as a christening present. Recently, someone has suggested it a novelty tool and will be useless to him when he grows up. What alternative premium tools would you suggest as a christening gift?

Question 3:
From Mike: I’m building up my skills slowly by adding one new skill to each project I take on where I can.  I want to try my hand at dovetails one of these days as that new skill. I have two questions:

1. There are a ton of ways I see people doing them. Is there a method you recommend people start with? You recommend people learn to sharpen by picking one method, and sticking with it until you're good at it. Would the same apply to dovetail methods, or should you try a bunch of ways and then go with what you find out you like doing?
2. Should I start with practice joints on scrap wood or incorporate them when I'm actually making a project so there's more at stake and I have to take it more seriously?

	Half-Blind Dovetails Cut by Hand By Christian Becksvoort #250–Nov/Dec 2015 Issue The craftsman’s calling card
	Don’t Fear the Hand-Cut Dovetail (Part 1) By Christian Becksvoort #238–Jan/Feb 2014 Issue For the first time, a modern master reveals every step of his system
	How to Cut and Fit Perfect Dovetail Pins (Part 2) By Christian Becksvoort #239–Mar/Apr 2014 Issue Scribe the tails accurately and the rest is simple handwork
	Hand-Cut Dovetails, Accurate and Fast By Christian Becksvoort #171–July/Aug 2004 Issue A tip from a tails-first guy
	My Favorite Dovetail Tricks By Christian Becksvoort #171–July/Aug 2004 Issue Five ways to increase accuracy and reduce the time it takes to execute this hand-cut joint

Segment: All-Time Favorite Technique

• Barry: Using blue tape as a shim
• Ben: When you're done cutting an odd angle, cut it one more time on a piece of scrap so you can recall the angle
• Mike: Full-size mockups

Question 4:
From Yves: I have just made my first checkerboard (walnut and maple) inlay strip which is intended for a cherry end table top. When sanding, the strip cracked along its length and I discovered that I had done a poor job of the clamping. The cracked section, which is about  4-5 inches long on one side of the checkerboard strip appears to have “lifted” during clamping and there is now an air space under the crack. Any suggestions that might help to save this? I thought perhaps trying to inject some glue under the crack to fill in the space using a needle???

Question 5:  
From David: I’ve recently had the opportunity to revamp my shop and am planning to build a Matt Kenney’s monster workbench. I’ve bought the plans, and watched the videos, but I don’t see how the top is fastened to the stand? Is there something I’m missing? Is it supposed to just sit on top?

Question 6:
From Dave: I love books but dislike most book covers - they're generally too visually noisy! I feel like my living space is full of loud colorful ad copy, or like I'm in a chain bookstore. Do you have any recommendations for ways to keep books in the home that would allow you to conceal the visual clutter? Really, I'm just asking for permission to make a bookcase hidden-door that spins around.

Recommendations:

Barry - Get a camelback for hiking

Ben - Yeti 18-oz. Rambler Bottle with  MagDock Cap

Mike - DFM A2 Steel Dowel Plate by DFM Tool Works

If you are interested in learning more about how you can support Old Sturbridge Village’s cabinet shop, contact their development office at development@osv.org for more information.

Question 1:

From Joseph:
I bought a new house in 2017 and instead of moving a lot of tools, I sold most of them and started over with new ones. There are 2 things I haven't yet invested in  - a router table and a dado stack. I'm primarily a hand tool guy, but I like to use power tools for dados/grooves and rabbets. Currently I am using my tablesaw with a FTG blade to nibble away at them, but I've reached my breaking point and want something a bit faster. I've used both a dado stack and a router table in the past. Both have some pluses and minuses for me; set up time being a major minus, but equally annoying for each. I'm also open to other alternatives that don't include joinery planes. Been there, bought the planes, sold the planes. I'm a lefty, and using planes right handed isn't fun for me.

• Tablesaw Blades for Joinery - Cut joinery faster and cleaner with a set of four blades By Bob Van Dyke #253–Mar/Apr 2016 Issue

Question 2:

From Nick:
I have a question regarding a long distance relationship with a beautiful jointer. I am member of a "local" woodworking guild which has nice shop that is outfitted with a 16" jointer, a few nice planers. Unfortunately, I live a little over 2 hours away and at my home shop I currently only have a DW735 planer and no jointer. I would like to use all this nice equipment to do everything required to get straight, flat and square stock to take home and finish my projects. My concern is that by the time I throw it in the back of the truck and drive 2 hours home I would defeat the purpose. Does wood move that quickly when you're driving 80... ahem.. 70 mph? Can I get home and put in my climate controlled basement shop before I've warped everything out of flat/square? How would weather effect this (i.e. cold dry winter/hot humid summer weather?).

• The Basics of Milling Lumber - Key machines and smart strategy for making boards foursquare By Bob Van Dyke #276-July/August 2019 Issue

Segment: All-Time Favorite Technique
Mike: Peter Galbert using a heat gun to straighten out riven stock Bob: Flush cutting on the tablesaw

• Video: Versatile Tablesaw L-Fence- Build a simple tablesaw fence accessory that handles a wide variety of joinery cuts By Bob Van Dyke

• The Incredible L-Fence - Take your tablesaw to another level with this simple shopmade fence By Bob Van Dyke #237–Tools & Shops 2014 Issue

Ben: Drawing an extra line when sawing on the left side of your layout line

Question 3:  

From Jim:
I am planning to build a sewing table for my wife. The plans call for using cherry plywood for several major panels of the case. While the stability of plywood is certainly an advantage, it is expensive and I like the idea of using glued up panels made from 4/4 stock. What would you do and why?

Recommendations:

Ben - Sharpen your marking gauge, because you know it's dull
Mike -  Get a Soda Stream

Every two weeks, a team of Fine Woodworking staffers answers questions from readers on Shop Talk Live, Fine Woodworking‘s biweekly podcast. Send your woodworking questions to shoptalk@taunton.com for consideration in the regular broadcast! Our continued existence relies upon listener support. So if you enjoy the show, be sure to leave us a five-star rating and maybe even a nice comment on our iTunes page.  

Become a Fine Woodworking Unlimited member today and get instant access to all FineWoodworking.com content. Start your free two week trial here.

Question 1:

From Tom:
I’m now semi-retired and finally have the time to create a decent wood shop. I’ve moved to the Florida panhandle, where there are few hardwood dealers. In late May, I’ll be in Tennessee so I intend to stop in at a hardwood dealer/mill near Nashville. Given the projects on my to do list I’ll be picking up walnut, cherry, and ash. I also have my eye on black locust (for a picnic table), popular, box elder (table legs and aprons), and catalpa (ditto). Given the list of woods on the dealer's inventory list, I feel like a kid in a candy store. Perhaps too much like a kid in a candy store. I’d be interested in your collective wisdom about how one might go about stocking a new shop with wood, especially given the fact that the nearest hardwood dealer for a hobbyist is 5-6 hours away (Atlanta) and I don’t drive through Tennessee regularly enough to stop in at a dealer or mill whenever I need something (they are about 11 hours away). Y’all are fortunate to live where you do from a woodworking perspective, but I’ll take our weather over yours … I have lemons and tangerines on the trees in my front yard. :-)

Question 2:

From Richard:
Have you ever heard of hollowing the backs of western chisels? To speed the process of flattening the back of a chisel, my buddy first hollows the center to a depth of about 1 or 2 thousands of an inch with a dremel sanding flap attachment . The edges and toe are not touched by the sander. My buddy says that because the hollow is so slight, it is as easy to re-flatten the back and establish a new flat spot as it is to re-establish the cutting edge of a worn Japanese chisel.

• Here is the video that Anissa mentions, which she now admits he obviously had running in the dremel

Segment: Smooth Move

Ben: Drilling a depth-indication hole on the wrong side.
Barry: Trimming the horns of a frame and panel too soon.
Anissa: Forgetting that two years ago she grain matched the tops of three cabinets, then ignoring the grain match while fitting the cabinets with drawers.

Question 3:

From Jesse:
I’ve recently started the journey into furniture making.  I have a sliding miter saw and a very old table saw that is only good for rough cutting. I’m looking to purchase a band saw or jointer/planer combo. I only have room for one and only 110v availability. I am using hand saws and hand planes to do most of the dimensioning of my lumber. For a beginner, who has limited space and time in the shop, would a band saw or jointer/planer be more advantageous? I’d appreciate any guidance you can offer to ensure my next big purchase is a wise choice and will be the most practical.

Recommendations:

Ben - Prismacolor Premier Pencil Sharpener
Barry - Kettlebells for holding panel glue ups flat
Anissa -  A rock 

Every two weeks, a team of Fine Woodworking staffers answers questions from readers on Shop Talk Live, Fine Woodworking‘s biweekly podcast. Send your woodworking questions to shoptalk@taunton.com for consideration in the regular broadcast! Our continued existence relies upon listener support. So if you enjoy the show, be sure to leave us a five-star rating and maybe even a nice comment on our iTunes page.

Guest 1: Joe Taylor - Director of Sales for Rikon Joe gave us the ins and outs of a few of Rikon's new products

Model 10-326DVR: 14″ Deluxe Bandsaw with Smart Motor DVR Control

Guest 2: Nancy Hiller

From Jim: In terms of their aesthetic value, is there a line for you between fine furniture and cabinetry?

From Jeff: If you could only design, or build, which would it be and why?

Free Plan: Architectural Wall Cabinet Arts and crafts maker presents a fresh twist on a period design by Nancy R. Hiller #270–Sep/Oct 2018 Issue

The Pro's Corner Professional woodworkers sharing the information, for professional woodworkers new and old

Guest 3: Christian Becksvoort

From Scott: What are your top five records at the moment?

From Josh: What Shaker element do see reproduced poorly in modern versions of the classics?

From Erick: What finish are you using on most of your pieces, polyurethane or oil? And why?

A True Oil Finish Nontoxic and easily repaired, this traditional finish is still worth considering by Christian Becksvoort #152–Nov/Dec 2001 Issue

The Classic Shaker Style Discover the difference between the masterful and the near-miss by Christian Becksvoort #229–Nov/Dec 2012 Issue

Guest 4: Vic Tesolin

From Kevin: What aspects of woodworking do you see most newer students totally over think?

From Steve: Awhile ago, you posted a video of a tattoo that had leaves representing your favorite woods to work with. For those of us who are crap at identifying tree leaves, what are your favorite woods to build with?

4 Planes for Joinery Get perfect dadoes, grooves, rabbets, and tenons in no time By Vic Tesolin #246–Mar/Apr 2015 Issue

7 Questions with Vic Tesolin Simple really, we ask Vic questions, and he answers them

Every two weeks, a team of Fine Woodworking staffers answers questions from readers on Shop Talk Live, Fine Woodworking‘s biweekly podcast. Send your woodworking questions to shoptalk@taunton.com for consideration in the regular broadcast! Our continued existence relies upon listener support. So if you enjoy the show, be sure to leave us a five-star rating and maybe even a nice comment on our iTunes page.

Question 1:

From Al: I am having some trouble laying out the pins and tales on the Wenge in the more traditional way, unlike what Mike shows.  Wenge is extremely hard and not at all forgiving and the grain tends to be a problem in scribing the wood. Perhaps this is why he choose to do this with the table saw and router methods as shown on Rough Cut.  Where can I get the table saw blade and the router bit to do it like Mike. He always has great ideas that are very valuable.

• The Whiteside router bit Mike mentions can be found here

Question 2:

From Madison: I was wondering how long it took Mike to build the tea box featured in magazine issue 269.  

• Dovetailed Tea Box by Michael Pekovich #269–July/August 2018 Issue

Segment:  Ben: Steam bending everything!

Question 3:

From Matt: How would someone go about preparing kumiko strips without a tablesaw or drum sander?  

Every two weeks, a team of Fine Woodworking staffers answers questions from readers on Shop Talk Live, Fine Woodworking‘s biweekly podcast. Send your woodworking questions to shoptalk@taunton.com for consideration in the regular broadcast! Our continued existence relies upon listener support. So if you enjoy the show, be sure to leave us a five-star rating and maybe even a nice comment on our iTunes page.

Question 1: From Paul: Heide Martin’s serving trays in the May/June 2018 are beautiful and I have since made a couple. My question is about keeping the bottom boards flat. I cut some walnut that had been air dried for probably 20 years. In an hour or two both boards cupped. I then sequentially tried wetting one side, wetting both sides, soaking in water, soaking in fabric softener, each time clamping the boards to keep them flat and leaving for days and days to dry out. None of these things worked and in the end I ended up using some walnut plywood instead. How do you folks keep wide, thin boards flat?

• Working with Warped Panels by Christian Becksvoort #205–May/June 2009 Issue
• Video Series: Veneering Basics by Bob Van Dyke

Question 2: From Richard: In reality we all have limited amount of shop time available.  However, if the amount of time you could work on a project was not limited what one piece would you choose to make?

• A Journey to Bombé - Veteran woodworker Dan Faia plunges into the project of a lifetime by Thomas McKenna #234–July/Aug 2013 Issue

Segment: All-Time Favorite Technique

Mike: Using pocket holes to quickly make and change full-size mockups

Tom: Beveling an edge of a workpiece with a handplane

Ben: Riding the back of the blade to start a cut on the edge of workpiece

• Flawless Curves on the Bandsaw by Michael Fortune #199–July/Aug 2008 Issue

Question 3:   From Mark: I have been building furniture full-time for just over a year. Is it legal and/or ethical to build something from the magazine or a video workshop and then sell it? For instance, if a client asks me to build 4 Adirondack chairs, my thought is build them loosely based on what I find at Fine Woodworking, vs. reinventing the wheel with my own design every-time.

• Is it OK to sell furniture based on FWW articles? by Asa Christiana

Question 4: From John: I was reading a FWW article by Steve Latta in issue #241 about draw-bored tenons where he said, “I make pins from riftsawn or quartersawn stock...”. If you’re making dowels, how can it possibly make any difference whatsoever if you use quartersawn or plain sawn boards? I still like Steve Latta, btw.  Keep up the great work, see y’all at FWWlive!

Every two weeks, a team of Fine Woodworking staffers answers questions from readers on Shop Talk Live, Fine Woodworking‘s biweekly podcast. Send your woodworking questions to shoptalk@taunton.com for consideration in the regular broadcast! Our continued existence relies upon listener support. So if you enjoy the show, be sure to leave us a five-star rating and maybe even a nice comment on our iTunes page.

Question 1: From Harry: How can I prevent Camellia from becoming all gummy. After letting a plane set for a few weeks that had been wiped down with Camellia Oil it was next to impossible to get the plane apart. I actually caused some minor damage it was stuck so hard.

Rollie’s answer: On tools if you have areas that the oil is applied to that don’t see use it can build a bit, but not much and over a long period of time. A quick wipe with a bit of naphtha or acetone will clean it off. Those solvents are essential because they are fully volatile and won’t leave any oily residue, which mineral spirits will do.

Question 2: From Mike: In in a couple months I will be building a house and I will be putting my shop in the basement. Currently I have a small shop, but in my new shop it will be large (about 25x35). Since I have this rare opportunity, I want to put power in the floor and dust collection the floor. Therefore, I have to decide where to put my tools and I will not be able to move them. Are there general guidelines on placement of tools? How far should a table saw be away from a wall? What about a bandsaw, how far from a wall or in the sides? Same question for a router table, jointer and thickness planer.

• Grizzly’s online shop-layout planner
• A Layout Kit for Small Shops by John Yurko #174–Tools & Shops 2004 Issue

Segment: All-Time Favorite Technique

Mike: Using a bendy stick to hold in moldings as you glue them

Anissa: A Box Worth Repeating by Laura Mays #240–May/June 2014 Issue

Ben: Using blue tape and CA glue as a stand-in for double-sided tape

• StewMac’s YouTube Channel
• Marc Spagnuolo’s video

Mike’s double-down technique: Using a bendy ruler clamped in a pipe clamp as a curve bow

• Shopmade Drawing Bow by Tim Coleman #260–Mar/Apr 2017 Issue

Question 3:  

From Chris:
Do those of you with kids suffer like I do from a never ending queue of fix it items that are piled on the workbench and take precedence over projects? It’s fun to hack together solutions for beloved toys, and see the delight on their faces when it works, but it sucks up most of my limited shop time. Any tips on quick fixes, or do I just need to wait this period out until they are teenagers?

Question 4:

From Jim:
I recently upgraded table saws with a killer deal on a used Delta Unisaw with a Unifence. I'm used to a Biesemeyer fence, and have a number of jigs utilizing the parallel faces of the fence, such as an L fence. I do not think I can use these jigs on the Unifence because it lacks the parallel faces necessary to track or clamp the jigs. Any ideas for Unifence modification or other tricks to increase the utility of the Unifence?

Recommendations:

Ben - StewMac’s YouTube Channel
Anissa - Jonathan Livingston Seagull
Mike -  Lee Valley - Lee Valley Toggle Clamp Plate

Every two weeks, a team of Fine Woodworking staffers answers questions from readers on Shop Talk Live, Fine Woodworking‘s biweekly podcast. Send your woodworking questions to shoptalk@taunton.com for consideration in the regular broadcast! Our continued existence relies upon listener support. So if you enjoy the show, be sure to leave us a five-star rating and maybe even a nice comment on our iTunes page.

Enter for your chance to win Fine Woodworking's Shop Giveaway: Upgrade to Laguna! The winner will receive a prize that includes:

• 14|12 Bandsaw
• F2 Fusion Tablesaw
• 1 HP Dust Collector
• REVO 12|16
• 6″ Jointer ShearTec II

Question 1: From Shawn: I’m working on a Christmas present for my sister.  It’s a hallway table with 2 drawers in cherry. This is the first piece I’ve made with cherry.  Some of the surfaces have a quarter sawn grain orientation and I’m finding them highly prone to tear out. My card scraper seems to be the only tool I’ve got that can tackle it, and even then I still have to pay really close attention to the changing grain direction. I’d like to hear any recommendations you might have about tools and techniques to deal with tear out, and also about other tear out prone woods you’ve worked with. I’ve found quarter sawn maple to be difficult as well.

• Video: Taming Tough Grain with a Bevel-Up Plane by Bob Van Dyke #264-Nov/Dec 2017 Issue
• Video: Get Sharp Fast by Bob Van Dyke #254–May/June 2016 Issue

Question 2: From Joe: To build a bed for my grandson I ordered 50 bd ft of rough lumber,  Black walnut. The wood was beautiful but this is where my confusion began. I got the job done but I don't know if I went about it the best way. The bed with headboard, frame, 6 drawers underneath, and footboard had over 100 pieces. All the lumber was about 8 inches wide and about 10 feet long. Is it better to mill the long boards and then layout all the parts, or layout the parts oversize and cut them out and send smaller pieces through the planer and jointer?

Segment: All-Time Favorite Tool

Mike: 6-in. Combo Square
Bob: Stanley #4–Type 11
Ben: Lie Nielsen honing guide

• Video: Modifying an inexpensive honing guide by Bob Van Dyke

Question 3:   From Mike: I’ve come to realize my jointer needs tuning, and i recall you guys saying how you set your outfeed table a hair lower than your cutter head. I can’t find the episode that contains this discussion, but i don’t recall there being any reasoning for this. I adjusted mine as y’all suggested but found this was causing the trailing ends of the boards to not touch the blades. After reading my powermatic manual, it says to have the outfeed table level with blade, so what’s up with your hack causing me this grief?

• Video Workshop: Machine Setup – The Jointer with Matt Wajda

Recommendations:

• Ben - Apple Music's Wes Montgomery Essentials playist
• Mike - Pickles from Rein's Deli in Vernon, CT

Every two weeks, a team of Fine Woodworking staffers answers questions from readers on Shop Talk Live, Fine Woodworking‘s biweekly podcast. Send your woodworking questions to shoptalk@taunton.com for consideration in the regular broadcast! Our continued existence relies upon listener support. So if you enjoy the show, be sure to leave us a five-star rating and maybe even a nice comment on our iTunes page.

Chris Schwarz is a furniture maker and writer who works from a German barroom built in 1896 in Covington, Ky. He is one of the founders of Lost Art Press, a book-publishing company that specializes in handwork, and Crucible Tool, a company that makes hand tools for woodwork. Chris is the author of several books, including Workbenches: From Design & Theory to Construction & Use (F+W Media), The Anarchist’s Tool Chest, Campaign Furniture, The Anarchist’s Design Book and Ingenious Mechanics (Lost Art Press). In addition to his publishing efforts, he builds casework and Welsh stick chairs for clients all over the world.

Chris' class at Fine Woodworking Live is titled: Compound-Angle Joinery, Minus the Math
Mastering compound angles typically means mastering trigonometry. But it doesn’t have to be that way. Compound angles can be measured, laid out, and cut without any math—or even numbers. Chris will show you the methods he uses for replicating unusual (sometimes radical) compound angles to build his Welsh stick chairs. The method requires just a wire clothes hanger, a sliding bevel, and a ruler. (Oh, and you’ll also need to bring an open mind.) The technique allows you to replicate compound angles from photos or drawings, or to create new designs using half-scale models (made with that clothes hanger).

Register now for Fine Woodworking Live 2019!

Enter for your chance to win Fine Woodworking's Shop Giveaway: Upgrade to Laguna!

The winner will receive a prize that includes:

• 14|12 Bandsaw
• F2 Fusion Tablesaw
• 1 HP Dust Collector
• REVO 12|16
• 6″ Jointer ShearTec II

Enter for your chance to win Fine Woodworking's Shop Giveaway: Upgrade to Laguna! The winner will receive a prize that includes:

• 14|12 Bandsaw
• F2 Fusion Tablesaw
• 1 HP Dust Collector
• REVO 12|16
• 6″ Jointer ShearTec II 

Question 1:

From William: I live in Ohio where the Emerald Ash Borer is ravaging every ash tree around. With all these ash trees coming down and the infestation of the Ash Borer, are we looking at a future shortage of ash trees?  Should we, as woodworkers, stock up on quality ash boards while we can get them and while they're fairly inexpensive?

Question 2:

From Paul: I’ve started looking for a better sketchbook and am overwhelmed by the choices.  I’ve heard Mike talk about the books he uses, but I’ve never heard him mention the brand or “model” he favors.  On STL 155 he mentioned 60-80 lb paper, spiral bound, unruled, 6x9 size. Frankly, that limits it to about half a zillion options and it’s very hard to judge quality even touching the book at the local art supply place.  So please spill, Mike!

Segment: All-Time Favorite Tool

• Mike: Japanese saw with the handle trimmed off
• Barry: His new benchtop mortiser
• Ben: Dovetail marker made by Christian Becksvoort 

Question 3:  

From Caleb: I'm wondering if any of you have used a hollow chisel mortiser as a drill press? Is this a viable way to get around buying a drill press?

Question 4:

From Chris: What books inspire you to get out to your shop and build something? Any favorite books on the history of woodworking and maybe different trends through the ages? Or books specific to a style of working, like Shaker or arts & crafts, etc.? And from Larry: I would love to see a Live Talk episode on “go to books” reference books for novice woodworkers.

Every two weeks, a team of Fine Woodworking staffers answers questions from readers on Shop Talk Live, Fine Woodworking‘s biweekly podcast. Send your woodworking questions to shoptalk@taunton.com for consideration in the regular broadcast! Our continued existence relies upon listener support. So if you enjoy the show, be sure to leave us a five-star rating and maybe even a nice comment on our iTunes page.

Leave a comment on this episodes show notes page to be entered in the giveaway of Craig Thibodeau's book, The Craft of Veneering.

 Peter Galbert’s FWW Live 2018 Keynote Speech - Unsurprisingly, the journey of a windsor chairmaker is rarely a straight line

Question 1:

From David: I have avoided cordless power tools because as a hobbyist and renter, I seldom use the tools outside of the basement workshop. I've been told I don't know what I'm missing, but it seems my wallet prefers it that way.  I'm most concerned about trying to commit to one brand/manufacturer or contend with the expense and hassle of having multiple chargers and batteries that aren't compatible. Do you feel as though it makes sense to keep all of your cordless power tools within the same brand? Or is my concern unfounded? If you had to commit to a brand, what would they be and why?

Question 2:

From Harry: How can I prevent Camellia from becoming all gummy. After letting a plane set for a few weeks that had been wiped down with Camellia Oil it was next to impossible to get the plane apart. I actually caused some minor damage it was stuck so hard.

Segment: Smooth Move Ben: Not looking at the fine print on a router bearing Anissa: Not looking at the sticker telling her which way to assemble a part on a dust collector

Question 3:  

From J: Hey folks, I recently volunteered to be the shop manager for my local guild of woodworkers.  We have a 16” Oliver that apparently, according to some, must never have its bed waxed. They prefer it is cleaned only with kerosene, the reason being that it’s believed waxing a jointer bed will cause glue joints to fail. Any merit to this train of thought? Or can I just wax it and make everyone’s lives easier.

• Mike recommendation of TopCote is now called GlideCote
• Ben uses and recommends SlipIt

Question 4:

From Joe: I’ve gotten very good at sharpening my hand plane blades as well as making my wood surface feel silky smooth off the hand plane.  When using a 2 pound cut shellac as a finish, do I need to rough up wood surface with sandpaper (such as 300 grit) so the shellac can stick better to the wood surface?

Every two weeks, a team of Fine Woodworking staffers answers questions from readers on Shop Talk Live, Fine Woodworking‘s biweekly podcast. Send your woodworking questions to shoptalk@taunton.com for consideration in the regular broadcast! Our continued existence relies upon listener support. So if you enjoy the show, be sure to leave us a five-star rating and maybe even a nice comment on our iTunes page.

Normally here I post a bunch of links. I'm going to be honest, you just need one link on this, Craig's website. Everything he discusses is easily found on his website, and the site itself is wonderfully done. It's worth going to just to see how a real pro presents their work. Plus, while you're there you can buy a signed copy of his book! -Ben

https://ctfinefurniture.com/

How Ben finished Mike's spoon - Finish Greenwood Spoons Like a Pro by Emmet Van Driesche

Question 1: From Fabian: I have a sliding table saw and struggle to convert all the jigs mentioned in the magazine to fit my saw. How would you attach for example a kumiko grid jig as used by Mike in the article "Spice up your work with kumiko" to the saw? Do I fasten it with bolts to the crosscut fence or just let it ride in the one miter slot in the sliding table? In either case it is just secured on the left side of the blade.

• Spice up your work with kumiko by Michael Pekovich #259–Jan/Feb 2017 Issue
• Sliding Tablesaws: Is One Right for You? by Daniel Chaffin #272–Tools & Shops 2019 Issue 

Question 2: From Chris: I'm on the lookout for a new paste wax solution. I'm totally over the petroleum smell of commercial options, and would love something simple with just a bit of luster to apply to my projects. Has Mike ever shared his recipe to attempt to recreate the non-longer-available Goddard's Cabinet Makers Wax? I never used the product in its original form, but I'm sold on his description of it. Something natural, simple, and lemon-scented sounds like the perfect solution for me.

• Which Waxes Work Best? by Mark Schofield
• Custom Blending Paste Wax in the Shop - Don Williams site Don'sBarn.com
• Briwax - Natural Creamed Beeswax

Segment: All Time Favorite Tool of All Time… for this week Tom: Cabinet scraper and card scraper
Mike: Dead blow mallet to straighten his folded-back backsaw
Ben: ARK Shark Guard for his Delta Unisaw

Question 3:   From Josh: I see pictures posted online where people have gotten a completely mirror polished edge on a chisel or plane iron. I’m using a Norton 1000 water stone, followed by a King 3000, followed by a Norton 8000 stone. I can’t seem to get that mirror polish. I still end up with some scratches, no matter how long I work with the 8000 stone, even when honing a new blade. I know Mike recommends 1000/4000/8000, but Lie Nielsen skips the intermediate grit, so I don’t think the 3000 stone is my problem. I’ve thought about trying to get a finer stone than the 8000 I have, but I don’t want a $100 experiment.

Question 4: From Peter: The cement floor of my shop is unsealed and kind of wrecks my feet after a day in the shop. Keeping in mind that it’s a rental, do you have any recommendations for an affordable flooring option that may help my feet and also protect my equipment from the sludge that melts off my wife’s car? It needs to be solid enough that I can have my lathe on that won’t increase vibration.

Every two weeks, a team of Fine Woodworking staffers answers questions from readers on Shop Talk Live, Fine Woodworking‘s biweekly podcast. Send your woodworking questions to shoptalk@taunton.com for consideration in the regular broadcast! Our continued existence relies upon listener support. So if you enjoy the show, be sure to leave us a five-star rating and maybe even a nice comment on our iTunes page.

Check out our newest video workshop, Enfield Cupboard with Hand Tools featuring Chris Gochnour and be sure to help us make our video workshops even better by filling out this quick survey.

Question 1: From Dean: I have an enjoyable dilemma. I am building a garage with adjacent shop space at our north home.  The shop is 200 sq-ft, one third the size of my St. Paul shop, and thus creates a challenge adapting to a small space. I have been devouring all the FWW articles on small shops and believe I can make this space workable but I will have to make some concessions, mainly my tablesaw, jointer, and planer. Will I be satisfied and served by a portable, contractor-style table saw and a combination jointer-planer?  

• Portable Tablesaws by Patrick McCombe #209–Tools & Shops 2010 Issue

Question 2: From Tanc: Is there a guideline for when stretchers are needed to strengthen a piece? I am looking to build an entryway table from oak that is 32-in. high, 60-in. long, 12-in. deep, with a  2 ½-in. apron and 2-in. legs that taper down to 1-in. I prefer simple designs, and would rather not have stretchers.

• Floating-Top Table by Michael Pekovich #263-Sep/Oct 2017 Issue
• Engineer Shelves With The Sagulator by Bill Kovalick #190–Mar/April 2007 Issue
• Brass Stretcher Brightens a Bench by Michael Robbins #267–Mar/Apr 2018 Issue
• Given a common inspiration, three furniture makers create a diversity of designs by Mark Schofield #184–May/June 2006 Issue

Ben's mockup of Tanc's table with the given dimensions:

Benside Table:

Segment: Smooth Moves

• John: Not cleaning the lint off of a new floor finish applicator
• Anissa: Touching a friends piece of furniture while the finish was still wet
• Ben: Trusting a tool that should never have been trusted

Question 3:   When I set up my workshop, I positioned the bench facing a south-facing window and installed fluorescents directly above the bench at about eight feet above the floor. If I have a board on edge, any markings on the side facing my body are difficult to see because that area is in shadow. I want to avoid using task lights wherever possible, as they just get in the way. I'm thinking that more overhead lighting is the answer.  Do you have any thoughts about where this should be positioned to minimize shadow areas when working at the bench?

• Let There Be Light by Nancy McCoy #209–Tools & Shops 2010 Issue

Question 4: From David: I am baffled that some ash stock I milled a couple months ago is now nearly impossible to plane. I cut and milled the ash for a small box a while ago. It was wonderful to work with and easy to plane. I put the pieces aside to enjoy the far too short Minnesota summer. I kept it in the same place all my wood stock lives; my basement workshop. I was looking forward to getting back to work on the box. I decided to plane all the pieces again, assuming it wouldn’t be flat and square as it was months ago. I was dumbfounded that it was nearly impossible to plane. I used the exact same plane I used originally. I ended up resharpening the blade twice and adjusted it to take the finest possible shaving. Still it would stick and chatter across the board and leave tear out in the middle of smooth grain. To make sure I wasn’t hallucinating, I tried planing some oak and some twisty walnut. It performed beautifully. It was as though it had developed a skin of steel in the time since I first milled it. Any ideas about what/why this happened?

Recommendations:

• Ben - PBS’s Craft in America episode–Visionaries
• Anissa - American violin maker–James Reynold Carlisle

Every two weeks, a team of Fine Woodworking staffers answers questions from readers on Shop Talk Live, Fine Woodworking‘s biweekly podcast. Send your woodworking questions to shoptalk@taunton.com for consideration in the regular broadcast! Our continued existence relies upon listener support. So if you enjoy the show, be sure to leave us a five-star rating and maybe even a nice comment on our iTunes page.

Check out our newest video workshop, Enfield Cupboard with Hand Tools featuring Chris Gochnour and be sure to help us make our video workshops even better by filling out this quick survey.

Question 1: From Dean: I have an enjoyable dilemma. I am building a garage with adjacent shop space at our north home.  The shop is 200 sq-ft, one third the size of my St. Paul shop, and thus creates a challenge adapting to a small space. I have been devouring all the FWW articles on small shops and believe I can make this space workable but I will have to make some concessions, mainly my tablesaw, jointer, and planer. Will I be satisfied and served by a portable, contractor-style table saw and a combination jointer-planer?  

• Portable Tablesaws by Patrick McCombe #209–Tools & Shops 2010 Issue

Question 2: From Tanc: Is there a guideline for when stretchers are needed to strengthen a piece? I am looking to build an entryway table from oak that is 32-in. high, 60-in. long, 12-in. deep, with a  2 ½-in. apron and 2-in. legs that taper down to 1-in. I prefer simple designs, and would rather not have stretchers.

• Floating-Top Table by Michael Pekovich #263-Sep/Oct 2017 Issue
• Engineer Shelves With The Sagulator by Bill Kovalick #190–Mar/April 2007 Issue
• Brass Stretcher Brightens a Bench by Michael Robbins #267–Mar/Apr 2018 Issue
• Given a common inspiration, three furniture makers create a diversity of designs by Mark Schofield #184–May/June 2006 Issue

Ben's mockup of Tanc's table with the given dimensions:

Benside Table:

Segment: Smooth Moves

• John: Not cleaning the lint off of a new floor finish applicator
• Anissa: Touching a friends piece of furniture while the finish was still wet
• Ben: Trusting a tool that should never have been trusted

Question 3:   When I set up my workshop, I positioned the bench facing a south-facing window and installed fluorescents directly above the bench at about eight feet above the floor. If I have a board on edge, any markings on the side facing my body are difficult to see because that area is in shadow. I want to avoid using task lights wherever possible, as they just get in the way. I'm thinking that more overhead lighting is the answer.  Do you have any thoughts about where this should be positioned to minimize shadow areas when working at the bench?

• Let There Be Light by Nancy McCoy #209–Tools & Shops 2010 Issue

Question 4: From David: I am baffled that some ash stock I milled a couple months ago is now nearly impossible to plane. I cut and milled the ash for a small box a while ago. It was wonderful to work with and easy to plane. I put the pieces aside to enjoy the far too short Minnesota summer. I kept it in the same place all my wood stock lives; my basement workshop. I was looking forward to getting back to work on the box. I decided to plane all the pieces again, assuming it wouldn’t be flat and square as it was months ago. I was dumbfounded that it was nearly impossible to plane. I used the exact same plane I used originally. I ended up resharpening the blade twice and adjusted it to take the finest possible shaving. Still it would stick and chatter across the board and leave tear out in the middle of smooth grain. To make sure I wasn’t hallucinating, I tried planing some oak and some twisty walnut. It performed beautifully. It was as though it had developed a skin of steel in the time since I first milled it. Any ideas about what/why this happened?

Recommendations:

• Ben - PBS’s Craft in America episode–Visionaries
• Anissa - American violin maker–James Reynold Carlisle

Every two weeks, a team of Fine Woodworking staffers answers questions from readers on Shop Talk Live, Fine Woodworking‘s biweekly podcast. Send your woodworking questions to shoptalk@taunton.com for consideration in the regular broadcast! Our continued existence relies upon listener support. So if you enjoy the show, be sure to leave us a five-star rating and maybe even a nice comment on our iTunes page.

Question 1: From Cameron: I’m thinking of making a bench inspired by Mark Edmundson’s “Modern Danish Cord Bench” from issue #194-Nov/Dec 2007. I’m want to stretch the width to 6’ to use at my 7’ table.  Will the front and rear rails be enough to support 4 well fed adults or will I have a hilarious story to tell for the next 30 year about the thanksgiving collapse of 2019?

• Mark Edmundson’s “Modern Danish Cord Bench” from issue #194-Nov/Dec 2007
• Strategies For Building Stronger Furniture by Mike Korsak #269–July/August 2018 Issue

Question 2: From Mark: I saw a video where Matt Wajda drew a tool chest, full scale by hand.  Is this a common method? I draw Architecture for a living, I am tired of drawing.  I’m not interested in SketchUp, I already spend way too much time with AutoCAD. Woodworking is my release. I completely understand that you can work issues out on paper long before you even touch a board.  I am curious about designing without drawing. Does anyone you know use a design process that does not involve drawing?

• Behind the Design: Tim Coleman’s Arabesque by Tim Coleman and Ben Strano #270–Sep/Oct 2018 Issue
• Mike's post showing the 1/4-piece mirror trick

Segment: Shop Resolutions

• Mike - Learn a new skill this year
• Anissa - Draw every day
• Ben - Finish working on his shop, and start working in his shop… by May

Question 3: From Andy: Any idea how to go about achieving the finish in the attached image? I’ve never seen a finish like this one that’s pretty vibrant, yet maintains the appearance of the grain. Is it just a watered down paint?

• Real Milk Paint's Color Chart
• Old Fashioned Milk Paint's Color Chart

Question 4: From Bob: I have some Japanese chisels that I’m starting to use.  About 3/16” behind the edge of the blade is a cove. When you grind back to that cove, the back will no longer be flat.  Do you have to toss the chisel out at that point?

• Tapping Out a Japanese Plane Blade with Andrew Hunter by Andrew Hunter #260–Mar/Apr 2017 Issue

Every two weeks, a team of Fine Woodworking staffers answers questions from readers on Shop Talk Live, Fine Woodworking‘s biweekly podcast. Send your woodworking questions to shoptalk@taunton.com for consideration in the regular broadcast! Our continued existence relies upon listener support. So if you enjoy the show, be sure to leave us a five-star rating and maybe even a nice comment on our iTunes page.

Question 1:

From Tony:

We hear so much talk about  Lie Nielsen, Veritas, and Stanley hand planes but, I have a Millers Falls No. 8 that i picked up from an Antique store, that works really well. I don't think I’ve ever heard the Millers Falls Name be mentioned on the Podcast, so I am wondering if they’re any good? They seem to have been in contention with Stanley and they are American made from New England no less, since 1868!

• TimeTestedTools.net
• Ron Hock replacement plane blades -http://www.hocktools.com/products/bp.html

Question 2:

From Matt:

I have been wanting to do a project using drawbore mortise and tenon joints. Is it a bad idea to attempt this type of joint in a softer woods like cherry or walnut, rather than oak.

• Drawbored Tenons by Steve Latta #241–July/Aug 2014 Issue 
• Video: Chris Gochnour - Drawboring and Gluing Up the Face Frame
• Floating-Top Table by Michael Pekovich #263-Sep/Oct 2017 Issue

Segment: Smooth Move

• Mike - Forgetting that someone commissioned something from him, not those he looks up to
• Barry - Making a mistake on a piece, remaking the piece, then accidentally using the mistake on the final piece
• Ben - Trying to get away with not making a proper sled and accidentally dropping a piece on the tablesaw blade

Question 3:

From Bob: Can someone explain the difference between a scrub plane and a smooth plane? They seem similar in size and construction.

Question 4:

From Phillip:

I am looking to build a dining room table to a friend of mine, and am wondering what type of wood would be best to use. I have narrowed it down to White Oak, Cherry, and Walnut. The friend that I am making this for is a military man, and so gets stationed at different bases around the country every few years. My main concern is the table warping or splitting due to the drastic location and environmental changes that he will come across. Obviously, being a dining room table it also must be sturdy and not be too prone to scratches, dings, etc. White Oak is very wear resistant, but has a medium-high shrinkage value. Cherry is pretty stable once dried, but is softer and may get more dings. Walnut seems to be the middle road, being harder and less susceptible to scratches than Cherry but less likely to shrink/warp than White Oak.

What type of wood would you suggest that is going to be resistant to scratches and dings, yet won't warp or split in drastic climate changes? 

Recommendations:

Barry - Dedicated Shop Shoes
Ben - Chris Thile's Thank You, New York"
Mike - Tom Waits' album Swordfish Trombones

Every two weeks, a team of Fine Woodworking staffers answers questions from readers on Shop Talk Live, Fine Woodworking‘s biweekly podcast. Send your woodworking questions to shoptalk@taunton.com for consideration in the regular broadcast! Our continued existence relies upon listener support. So if you enjoy the show, be sure to leave us a five-star rating and maybe even a nice comment on our iTunes page.

To enter to win Bob Van Dyke's sharpening box from issue #254:

1. Leave a comment on this episode's show-notes page
2. Head over to the Connecticut Valley School of Woodworking site and sign up for their email list

We’ll pick a winner December 21, 2018.

Question 1:

From Amy: I've been using a piece of vegetable tanned leather with green waxy honing compound as a strop. I start by rubbing compound onto the shiny side of the leather. However, when I go to strop my carving knives, the pressure from my blade compresses the compound and it flakes off. Is there something wrong with my compound, or am I doing something wrong?

Question 2:

From Matt: I have some 10-in. wide 8/4 African Mahogany that I have been resawing into thinner boards.  I start by jointing one face then one edge and then resawing, usually down the middle. There is a good amount of tension in the boards, so after resawing they have a decent twist.  Do I need to let the boards re-acclimate before I re-joint and plane them, or can I do that immediately? Also, would I be better off not jointing the face and resawing to a center-line rather than using the bandsaw fence. It seems like a waste of time getting that face flat just so I can use the bandsaw fence.

  All Time Favorite Technique

Bob: Fixing a mistake and perfectly matching both the face grain and end grain. 

• How to Fix Flaws and Mistakes by Mark Schofield #228–Sept/Oct 2012 Issue

Ben: Using a sawbench to support the ramps when moving machinery off the back of a pickup truck

Mike: Using a bird-mouth joint to create dividers

• Pennsylvania Spice Box by Steve Latta #196–Jan/Feb 2008 Issue

Question 3:

From Matt (in Australia): I see many of the worlds best woodworkers only apply glue to one mating surface of a joint not both as advocated by Hoadley. When is it acceptable to only apply glue to one surface of a mating joint?

Question 4:

From Anthony: Last couple years I’ve been on the hunt for an 8” jointer and just recently I was able to secure a CL purchase on a 12” jointer that I’m pretty excited about. It’s a Bridgewood 12” 5hp that I picked up a few hours away from a now retired door maker. As with most home woodworkers, my jointing experience has been on a six inch jointer. What are the potential areas of concern with a larger jointer? In general, with a jointer, what leads up to an accident? Is it simply being unaware of your hands and proper use?

• Push pads that actually work by Roland Johnson

Recommendations:

Ben - David Johnson's Instagram Page

Bob - His own Instagram page

Mike - Go buy a fresh bottle of glue

Every two weeks, a team of Fine Woodworking staffers answers questions from readers on Shop Talk Live, Fine Woodworking‘s biweekly podcast. Send your woodworking questions to shoptalk@taunton.com for consideration in the regular broadcast! Our continued existence relies upon listener support. So if you enjoy the show, be sure to leave us a five-star rating and maybe even a nice comment on our iTunes page.

For more information on The Florida School of Woodwork: http://www.schoolofwoodwork.com/

For more infomation on Fine Woodworking HANDS On 2019 in Tampa, February 1-3: http://bit.ly/2Pbh03U

Kate Swann is a lifetime woodworker, furnituremaker, and artist that known nation wide for her elegant custom furniture designs. Her unique works have been featured in magazines and act as functional furniture pieces in boardrooms, homes and retail spaces around the country. Renowned for her exquisite textural and surface embellishment work, Kate draws from her time spent wandering the globe as a shepherdess, outward bound instructor and translator. As the founder and director of the Florida School of Woodworking, she oversees the curriculum, and mission of the school. Her knowledge and skills come from many years of running Franklin St Fine Woodwork, a custom design/build company she co-founded over twenty years ago. Passionate about the artisanal crafts she works to inspire and motivate students to achieve new levels of accomplishment in the fine woodworking and to enjoy the value of incorporating artisanal work in their lives. We're excited to have the Florida School of Woodwork as the location for our first ever hands-on event, February 1-3, 2019. Fine Woodworking’s HANDS ON is a unique opportunity to expand your skills through personalized instruction from a diverse group of experts in an intimate setting.

Every two weeks, a team of Fine Woodworking staffers answers questions from readers on Shop Talk Live, Fine Woodworking‘s biweekly podcast. Send your woodworking questions to shoptalk@taunton.com for consideration in the regular broadcast! Our continued existence relies upon listener support. So if you enjoy the show, be sure to leave us a five-star rating and maybe even a nice comment on our iTunes page.  

Question 1: From Matt: I have 3 questions about getting into kumiko: 1.) What (Japanese) chisel would you recommend starting with?

• Hida Tool - HidaTool.com
• Iida Tool - JapanTool-Iida.com

2.) What online/printed resources would you recommend?

• Spice up your work with kumiko by Michael Pekovich #259–Jan/Feb 2017 Issue
• Mike Farrington's Kumiko work on YouTube
• John Reed Fox on Roy Underhill's Woodwright's Shop

3.) Any thoughts on preparing the strips without a tablesaw or drum sander? Question 2: From Martti: What is it in your preferred kumiko construction that ensures trouble-free cleanup over time for quite some years and decades? Segment: All Time Favorite Technique Ben - Loading magnets into a brass tube in order to keep the polarity correct

• K and J Magnetics

Mike - Sharpening a chisel to 20º-25º for paring end-grain on pine

Question 3: From Al: I am having some trouble laying out the pins and tales on the Wenge in the more traditional way, unlike  what Mike shows. Wenge is extremely hard and not at all forgiving and the grain tends to be a problem in scribing the wood. Perhaps this is why he choose to do this with the table saw and router methods.  Where can you get the table saw blade and the router bit to do it like Mike.

• Mike building his tea box on PBS

Every two weeks, a team of Fine Woodworking staffers answers questions from readers on Shop Talk Live, Fine Woodworking‘s biweekly podcast. Send your woodworking questions to shoptalk@taunton.com for consideration in the regular broadcast! Our continued existence relies upon listener support. So if you enjoy the show, be sure to leave us a five-star rating and maybe even a nice comment on our iTunes page.

Leave a comment on this episode's show notes page to enter to win a one of three Shop Talk Live t-shirts! - http://bit.ly/2JzIJZb

Question 1:

From Damon: It’s time for me to start surfacing rough boards, but I don’t have the money to buy BOTH a jointer and a planer. I do have a plan for milling stock without the jointer, please let me know what you think:

1. Buy a lunchbox planer and build a sled for face jointing
2. Build a jig for ripping a straight edge at the tablesaw
3. After face jointing with the sled and then planing the stock to thickness, the plan is to a rip a straight edge on my table using the jig and then ripping to width using the fence.          

Do you know of a better way to mill to four square without a jointer?

• Router Setup for Edge-Jointing by Jeff Colla
• Video: No jointer? No problem. by Gregory Paolini
• Video: Quick Tip: Jointing Without a Jointer by Thomas McKenna #205–May/June 2009 Issue
• Video: A Planer Sled for Milling Lumber by Keith Rust
• Video: Turn Your Planer into a Jointer by Dillon Ryan #256–Sep/Oct 2016 Issue
• Tablesaw Tapering Jig is Safer and Faster by Mark Schofield #229–Nov/Dec 2012 Issue

Question 2:

From Granary: What are your thoughts on resawing at the tablesaw? I'm terrified of it, but was recently and reluctantly exposed to it as a method for expediting the process at the shop. But, as an intermediate woodworker, I can only see downsides to resawing at the tablesaw. While taking a class, after resawing a few times at the tablesaw, I had to request that I not do it. I felt like a total wuss, but at the same time, when I was holding the stock, and the saw was running, I just felt like it was going to go wrong.

Segment: All Time Favorite Technique

Anissa: Gluing on clamping blocks for miters

• Tablesaw Sled for Miters by Craig Thibodeau #257–Nov/Dec 2016 Issue (features miter clamping tricks)

Ben: Using CA glue to glue a piece to an backer board in order to plane it thinner than 1/4-in.

Mike: Using shims to perfectly offset a piece

• Mid-Century Credenza by Libby Schrum #261–May/June 2017 Issue
• Video: Get perfect reveals with a Domino by Anissa Kapsales #261–May/June 2017 Issue

Question 3: Esoteric lumber questions!

From Craig: Needed some 16/4 ash stock for table legs. At my local lumberyard, I selected from a bin that contained a mix of flat, riff and quarter sawn boards, I pulled what I’d thought was an ideal piece, had the yard guy write up the tag, and then proceeded to the office. I noticed on the tag that the width of my selection was ~ 12/4. I suggested that I should pay the price for 12/4, rather than 16/4, but they were unpersuaded. It was foolish of me to suggest this, as at this yard the invisible sign on the wall reads “The customer is always wrong”

Love the show; Anissa “Long Pause” Kapsales is a nice addition

From Cameron: When breaking down a larger board do you prefer long or wide off cuts?  After listening to the pod for years now I’m obsessed with getting the best grain selection but don’t want to waste a whole board to get one piece.

As an example, I have a board that is 8-in. wide and 4-ft. long. From that I need piece that is 3-in. By 8-in. The best piece is on the edge of the board, 6-in. from the end.  

Every two weeks, a team of Fine Woodworking staffers answers questions from readers on Shop Talk Live, Fine Woodworking‘s biweekly podcast. Send your woodworking questions to shoptalk@taunton.com for consideration in the regular broadcast! Our continued existence relies upon listener support. So if you enjoy the show, be sure to leave us a five-star rating and maybe even a nice comment on our iTunes page.

Just a test, nothing to see here

Head over to ShopTalkLive.com and leave a comment on this episode's show-notes page for your chance to win a one-year membership to Fine Woodworking's new UNLIMITED membership! We’ll pick a winner November 9, 2018.

Make sure you check out The Craft of Veneering  by Craig Thibodeau

Question 1:

From Tom: I am building a credenza that will be 84" long, with solid walnut top and bottom. If the back is made of plywood (1/2" or 3/4"), is it ok to glue the back to the solid top and bottom pieces, or will differential wood movement cause this joint to fail?

• Strategies For Building Stronger Furniture by Mike Korsak #269–July/August 2018 Issue

Question 2:

From Ron: What are your opinions on the various panel clamps available (ie Damstom) and are any worth buying?   In most of your videos/articles I see shop made wooden cauls and lots of bar clamps, but I’m looking for a less stressful way since I struggle to keep things flat as I rush to get clamps on before the glue sets up.

• Creating an Attractive Tabletop, Part 2 Edge-jointing and glue-up by Bob Van Dyke #208–Nov/Dec 2009 Issue
• How to Make Cambered Cauls by Asa Christiana #234–July/Aug 2013 Issue

Segment: All Time Favorite Tool

Ben: Sharpening stone box

Mike: Associate editor, Barry Dima, because he's a kiss up and gave him a set of dividers

Tom: Small hammer he STOLE from the FWW shop

Question 3:

From Craig: I am going to build Garrett Hack's huntboard from issue #187. One thing I am unsure of is how to attach the drawer runners. The only thing shown in the text and plan is that they are tenoned at the front to the rails, with no mention of the back. They can't be mortised into the back panel like the kickers due to the assembly order, and simply gluing them to the sides would lead to cross grain gluing issues. I've thought of a couple ways I could attach them, one being sitting on cleats attached to the case back, or screwed into the side partitions with elongated holes. Do you guys have any thoughts or know how Garrett secured these pieces?

• The Versatile Huntboard by Garrett Hack #187–Nov/Dec 2006 Issue
• Video Workshop: Federal Side Table by Steve Latta
• How to Build a Swing-Out Drawer by Garrett Hack #234–July/Aug 2013 Issue

Every two weeks, a team of Fine Woodworking staffers answers questions from readers on Shop Talk Live, Fine Woodworking‘s biweekly podcast. Send your woodworking questions to shoptalk@taunton.com for consideration in the regular broadcast! Our continued existence relies upon listener support. So if you enjoy the show, be sure to leave us a five-star rating and maybe even a nice comment on our iTunes page.

Become a member today and get instant access to all FineWoodworking.com content.

Start your free two week trial here.

Show notes are available here.

To see the newest issue of Fine Woodworking.

Links mentioned in this episode:

An Edge-Jointing Primer - Well-tuned tools and the right technique create joints that last by Gary Rogowski #124–May/June 1997 Issue

Creating an Attractive Tabletop, Part 2 Edge-jointing and glue-up by Bob Van Dyke #208–Nov/Dec 2009 Issue

No Black Line Veneer

How to add splines for stronger miters - Quick jig produces clean joints with hidden power - by Doug Stowe #268–May/June 2018 Issue 

Show notes

Links mentioned in this episode:

Wood Planes Made Easy by David Finck #196–Jan/Feb 2008 Issue - http://bit.ly/2QU8Ui9

Handwork: Make a coopering plane by Clark Kellogg #263-Sep/Oct 2017 Issue - http://bit.ly/2QVs9YP

James Krenov on Handplanes by James Krenov #196–Jan/Feb 2008 Issue - http://bit.ly/2QTT5YS

Get to Know Japanese Handplanes by Andrew Hunter #260–Mar/Apr 2017 Issue - http://bit.ly/2wY5Mfg

Japanese Planes Demystified by Carl Swensson #145–Nov/Dec 2000 Issue - http://bit.ly/2QRCHrM

Soundproof a Basement Shop by Mark Corke #167–Tools & Shops 2003 Issue - http://bit.ly/2QQRQd3

Mike Farrington on YouTube - http://bit.ly/2QXRWPT

Dorian Bracht on YouTube - http://bit.ly/2QXQtsR

Sign up now for your chance to win the Ultimate Router Table Giveaway from Fine Woodworking and JessEm Tool Company

Links discussed in this episode:

Sanding on the Drill Press - by Michael Fortune #254–May/June 2016 Issue

Arts & Crafts Bed by Kevin Rodel #260–Mar/Apr 2017 Issue 

Contemporary Arts and Crafts Bed by Michael Cullen #268–May/June 

Emmet Van Driesche - Spoon blanks for sale

To enter to win a USB archive leave a comment on the show notes page for this episode. Winner will be selected September 14, 2018

Sharpening Services – Is it worth the time and expense to get your blades sharpened?

Video: Machine Setup – The Jointer part 1 – Matt Wajda sets the jointer tables using only a straight-edge and some scraps of paper

Finish Line: Original Arts and Crafts by Nancy R. Hiller #193–Sept/Oct 2007 Issue

Re-creating a Shaker Finish by Linda Coit #203–Jan/Feb 2009 Issue

Video Workshop: Mike fumes the white oak of his hayrake table

Video: How to Fume Furniture with Ammonia by Kelly J. Dunton #186–Sept/Oct 2006 Issue

Show Notes: http://bit.ly/2JzIJZb

Become a member today and get instant access to all FineWoodworking.com content. Start your free two week trial here: http://bit.ly/2m576Fl

For more Shop Talk Live or to submit a question: http://bit.ly/2mVJYd0

To see the newest issue of Fine Woodworking: http://bit.ly/2newDLh

Links mentioned:

Video: Accurate Biscuit Joints by Tony O'Malley #165–Sept/Oct 2003 Issue

Fine Furniture with Biscuit Joints by Michael Fortune #227–July/Aug 2012 Issue

Hall Table with Flair by Jennifer Anderson #236–Nov/Dec 2013 Issue

Display Cabinet, the Krenov Way by Jim Budlong #208–Nov/Dec 2009 Issue

Mid-Century Credenza by Libby Schrum #261–May/June 2017 Issue

Get perfect reveals with a Domino by Anissa Kapsales #261–May/June 2017 Issue

How to Tame Tricky Glue-Ups by Michael Fortune #243–Nov/Dec 2014 Issue

How to Make a Mallet by Michael Cullen #230–Tools & Shops 2013 Issue

We were going to put this interview in the last episode, but it deserved to have your undivided attention. So here is a special bonus episode of Shop Talk Live.

For more information on The Maplewoodshop program: https://www.maplewoodshop.com/

Show notes: http://bit.ly/2JzIJZb

Chris Becksvoort, the dovetail master at work by Christian Becksvoort, Ben Strano #264-Nov/Dec 2017 Issue - http://bit.ly/2M5heMI

Architectural Wall Cabinet by Nancy R. Hiller #270–Sep/Oct 2018 Issue -http://bit.ly/2LWq1QU

An Elegant, Contemporary DeskAn Elegant, Contemporary Desk by Michael Robbins #270–Sep/Oct 2018 Issue -http://bit.ly/2M0LmII

Scaling Furniture from Photos by Miguel Gómez-Ibáñez #170–May/June 2004 Issue - http://bit.ly/2LWtKhk

Resize. Don’t Redraw. – Dave Richards totally changes the scale of a piece in an efficient manner by David Richards - http://bit.ly/2vfRWlg

Mike, Matt, and Ben discuss glue-ups, premium vs. not-so-premium chisels, clogged handplanes, and milling lumber

Show-notes: http://bit.ly/2KQ2AF3

Links mentioned in the show:

• Tool Rant: Is that really a clamp? by Bob Van Dyke -http://bit.ly/2IZFNom
• How To Cut Dovetails on the Tablesaw by Gregory Paolini #231–Jan/Feb 2013 Issue - http://bit.ly/2J070av
• How to Tame Tricky Glue-Ups by Michael Fortune #243–Nov/Dec 2014 Issue - http://bit.ly/2J0YqbF
• Tim Rousseau – Simple push stick for safe bandsaw cuts - http://bit.ly/2KU65uj

If you have questions you’d like us to answer on the show, send them in to shoptalk@taunton.com. You can also use the voice memo app on your phone and email us a 30 second audio recording, or if you’re old-school you can leave a voicemail by calling 203-304-3456. 

Enter for your chance to win the Fine Woodworking SawStop Professional Cabinet Saw Giveaway - http://bit.ly/2HrUK1N

Show notes: http://bit.ly/2Ls18c1

Become a member today and get instant access to all FineWoodworking.com content. Start your free two week trial here: http://bit.ly/2m576Fl
For more Shop Talk Live or to submit a question: http://bit.ly/2mVJYd0

To see the newest issue of Fine Woodworking: http://bit.ly/2newDLh

Links from the show:

Make a Table from a Board by Michael Pekovich #243–Nov/Dec 2014 Issue - http://bit.ly/2sHpRkw
Video Workshop: Single Board Side Table by Michael Pekovich - http://bit.ly/2Hqu8yf

Left-Tilt vs. Right-Tilt Tablesaws by Hendrik Varju #191–May/June 2007 Issue - http://bit.ly/2sKYvKt

Tablesaw Kickback by Kelly Mehler #116–Jan/Feb 1996 Issue - http://bit.ly/2sKYPsF
Video: The Mighty DIY Push Stick by Ellen Kaspern #265–Tools & Shops 2018 Issue - http://bit.ly/2sJ30Fq
Push pads that actually work. Are you ready? by Rollie Johnson - http://bit.ly/2sKTNMJ

Build a Prairie Settle by Kevin Rodel #199–July/Aug 2008 Issue - http://bit.ly/2HqVlkq

Mike, Matt, and Ben discuss jointer setup, bad bandsaw blades, plywood workbenches, and Japanese chisels and their all-time favorite techniques

Mike, Anissa, and Ben discuss Christian Becksvoort dovetailing, Mike then chaldovetail jigs, card scrapers, half-mortise locks, and Anissa admits to an epic smooth move

Show notes: http://bit.ly/2HCvQxD

This episode was sponsored by Titebond: http://www.titebond.com/

Check out MM Wood Studio's experience at FWW Live: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cwvx3FRkkl4

For more information about Rikon's turning system: http://bit.ly/2HyVEut

Become a member today and get instant access to all FineWoodworking.com content. Start your free two week trial here: http://bit.ly/2m576Fl

For more Shop Talk Live or to submit a question: http://bit.ly/2mVJYd0

To see the newest issue of Fine Woodworking: http://bit.ly/2newDLh

In a futile attempt to empty the inbox, Mike, Matt, and Ben blaze through 14 questions in this special quick-fire episode

Full show notes are available here: http://bit.ly/2qu9xUc

This episode is sponsored by Titebond:

Even if you’re not a professional woodworker, you want to use the glue the pros use.  And three out of four pro woodworkers trust Titebond as their choice. For building wood furniture or cabinets to making picture frames or birdhouses, or just general repairs around the house, Titebond has the widest choice of glues to help with whatever project you want to tackle. Titebond – the right glue for your next project.

For more information, visit titebond.com or seem them on Facebook and Instagram.

Become a member today and get instant access to all FineWoodworking.com content. Start your free two week trial here: http://bit.ly/2m576Fl

For more Shop Talk Live or to submit a question: http://bit.ly/2mVJYd0

To see the newest issue of Fine Woodworking: http://bit.ly/2newDLh

Plus, dealing with a warped panel, keeping tabletops from moving, the safety of spalted wood, and a snippet from our interview with Brian Boggs

Handplanes that don't hold adjustments, dull bandsaw blades, 6-in. vs. 8-in. jointers, favorite tools, and the reign of Ben begins

Plus, bandsaw tables, mitered shooting boards, smooth moves, philosophical woodworking questions, glass disk sharpening systems, and pencil vs. knife

Bandsaw speed settings, mitered rips by hand, cabinet scrapers, crosscut sleds, sliding dovetails, and all-time favorite articles and tools

Plus, choosing stock for a desktop, sanding techniques for turning, chopping through mortises, favorite techniques, and a preview of Tom's interview with Gary Rogowski

Plus, ways to live without a jointer, bullnose bits, evening out color in sapele, favorite tools, and smooth moves

Plus, the guys discuss drawer and door reveals, shellac flakes, panel saws, shop layout, flattening chisels, and their all-time favorite articles

Fine Homebuilding editor Justin Fink comes in to discuss shop heating, moving a post, shop floors, walling in utilities, and all time favorite shops of all time

Plus, the guys talk about deciding what to build, Japanese vs Western style saws, favorite techniques, and what you should add to your holiday wishlist

Plus, the guys talk about planing veneer, jointing long boards, angled tenons, honing guides, and philosophical woodworking questions

Plus, the guys talk about outfeed tables, bandsaw drift, veneer thickness, and cross grain glue-ups

Plus, the guys talk about migrating sawdust staining the surrounding wood, shoulder planes, green wood, and they take a deep dive on drawer fitting

Plus, the guys talk about the new issue, curved scrapers, prefinishing dos and don't, milling lumber for a workbench top, and dive into what perfection means

Plus, alternatives to taking woodworking classes, routing circle cut-outs, glue line creeping, favorite tools, and smooth moves

Plus, the guys talk about drawer reveals, finishing cutting boards, all time favorite techniques and their newest smooth moves

This episode of Shop Talk Live is sponsored by Audible.

Head over to Audible.com/ShopTalkLive to get a free audio book.

04:50 - Question 1: 

I have a 400/1000 grit combination diamond stone, a high quality honing guide, and a leather strop. People always talk about removing the burr on the back of the blade after sharpening. I try to do that, but it seems to just bend back around and doesn't come off. I end up with a tiny sliver of iron on the end of my blade which is not straight and that I can bend with my finger. Why is this happening, what am I doing wrong?

-Theo

11:00 - Question 2:

Is there a maximum board width you are comfortable gluing up for a table top? I've heard that wider boards that are ripped down somewhat are more stable in the long run. I'm using some hickory for my top, and the boards will be around 10" wide following stock prep. I'd prefer not to rip them down.

-Eric

16:45 - All Time Favorite Tool of All Time... for this week:

Mike - Clamping cauls

Mike Pekovich: Arts and Crafts on Display
Ian Kirby: Gluing Up
Michael Fortune: How to Tame Tricky Glue-Ups

Ben - Lie Nielsen - Boggs curved spokeshave

37:50 - Question 3:

I recently made my first shooting board and modeled it after Mike’s shooting board with the sliding speed square for miters. My fence is dead square, checked with multiple hardware store squares but my cuts have yet to yield a square result. The consistent result is a cut that is high on the fence side of the board. After squaring and re-squaring many times I am at a loss. What am I doing wrong?

-Wes

Mike Pekovich: 6 Essential Bench Jigs
Video: Mike Pekovich’s Go-To Work Holding Jigs

46:20 - Ben's Audible recomendation:

Why We Make Things and Why It Matters: The Education of a Craftsman
By Peter Korn
Narrated by: Trabber Burns

Head over to Audible.com/ShopTalkLive to get a free audio book.

52:10 - Question 4:

A few months ago, I made a small side table out of cherry for my wife.  The table came out great but I’ve noticed in the past weeks that the glue line has turned into an obnoxious orange color.  The table has sat in indirect sunlight since finished.  The dowels have a “starburst” effect of glue around them and the glue line between the boards in the panel are now clearly visible.  I was wondering if you’d ever experienced this.  I had thought I’d sanded enough to remove any residual glue but perhaps not.  Now that the project has been finished with Arm-R-Seal, would it work to sand off the finish to remove the glue marks and then re-finish it?  In the end, I’d like to make this project look great again.  Any thoughts would be most helpful.  Thanks for your time. 

- Daniel

56:00 - All Time Favorite Technique of All Time... for this week

Ben - Using a finder of a glove to seal your squeeze bottle of finish

Mike - Breaking up a complicated glue up into multiple parts

1:02:30 - Question 5:

When sharpening chisels, do you put a micro bevel on them or just a standard 25 degree?  

-Richard

Plus, Ben, Matt, and Anissa discuss their favorite furniture makers, rules for the shop, All Time Favorite Tools and FWW Articles

Plus, the guys talk about dovetail spacing, hollow-chisel mortiser techniques, bucket-list furniture, smooth moves, and introduce a new segment taking a deep dive into surface prep

The guys are in Vegas and get to chat with skills advocate John Ratzenberger. Rollie Johnson joins and helps answer questions about secondary woods, having logs milled, and grinding on the cheap. 

Vic Tesolin stops by to talk tools and tool bombs, plus the guys talk about splash-and-go sharpening stones, inexpensive vises, fretsaws, shaping curved legs, tool cabinets, and their all-time favorite woodworking books of all time… for this week.

With Ben filling in for Tom, and Anissa Kapsales filling in for Matt, the group confesses smooth moves, discusses mortising options, intermediate projects, router tables, flattening cupped boards, and woodworking revelations. Plus, Mike is accused of being a bit cheeky with this all-time favorite technique.

Plus, the guys talk about how they make drawer stock, tablesaw horsepower, roll around carts, and making a miter sled for a benchtop saw

Plus, the guys debate working from plans vs. improvising, how much stock to leave when milling, all time favorite techniques, and some recent tool bombs

Plus, the guys talk about attributes of a good woodworking student, picking the right wood for a project, and their all time favorite furniture and techniques 

A special episode recorded live from Fine Woodworking Live 2017, featuring guests Peter Follansbee, Vic Tesolin, Joshua Klein, Joe Taylor, and Wilbur Pan

Plus, the guys talk about finishing drawer sides, planing curly maple, and all-time favorite techniques and tools. They also answer an age-old question: How important is a fore plane?

Plus, storing handplanes, swapping motors on a dangerous jointer, all time favorite techniques, furniture, and a listener asks the question, why does my plank stank? 

Which bandsaw blades do you really need? Waterstones: to soak or not to soak. Plus all time favorite techniques and tools (hint: Matt has discovered tape, but it’s not blue!).

Advice for putting together a hand-tool kit, and some solid advice on picking hammers and mallets for woodworking. Plus, a question about contrast and smooth moves and favorite furniture.

Plus the guys talk about keeping stains off workpieces, drill-press mortising attachments, grain direction on tabletops, and Ben makes everyone squirm with one of his favorites.

Bench tips for a fledgling woodworker. Plus a call for help, and update on SawStop vs. Bosch, and our all time favorite furniture and tools.

Using a cast-iron vise as an end vise, tips on shipping furniture safely, and  Matt is haunted by saw diapers. Plus smooth moves and all-time favorite articles.

Plus, the guys talk about their favorite furniture of all time, all time techniques, crusty finishes, and the all important question — does your tablesaw need a diaper?

Ben fills in for Tom and the guys talk about milling lumber, what they love and loathe about their workbenches, what to do with reclaimed lumber, and which block plane Willie HG should buy

The guys talk about tool storage, sharpening stone purchases, and their all time favorite techniques... for this week. Plus a great interview with Brian Boggs about design, becoming a pro, and crazy bandsaw techniques. 

Mike’s masterful moment on (web) TV. Plus the guys talk about nontoxic finishes and reveal their all-time favorite techniques and FWW articles of all time... for this week.

Rollie Johnson talks about his new blog and talks about choosing bandsaw blades. Plus hand-tool tricks for rabbets and favorite techniques and tools.

Favorite techniques, including Matt’s method of hiding splines in miters. What nail guns you need, fixing punky patches on spalted maple, and favorite furniture of all time... for this week.

The low-down on prefinishing parts, and the perfect finish for tools and drawer runners. Plus, Matt expresses his adoration for the Domino, and Mike has some tips for through-tenons.

IWF: Tom’s cabinet blunder and other smooth moves. Plus we roll out some new segments: stats and surprise questions. Will they make the cut?

IWF: What happened Atlanta did not stay in Atlanta. How to fix a wax headache, and the best approach to angling a mortise for a wedged tenon. Plus all-time favorite articles, and a shocking revelation as Matt admits that Ben was right!

Highlights from Matt’s appearance on The Highland Woodworker show.  Handsaw buying advice. Plus the guys share tips on half-blind dovetails and their all-time favorite techniques of all time... for this week.

We get the lowdown on Gary Rogowski's mentoring program for high-school woodworkers. Plus, what's up with the new magazine cover design? And our all-time favorite tools of all time... for this week.

Tom chats a bit about Fine Woodworking Live, which is making a comeback in 2017. Plus favorite furniture and a new segment, All Time Favorite Article of All Time... for This Week.

With Tom on vacation Ben fills in as host. Mike and Matt argue cast iron vs. bronze, miter saw specs, and whether Mike actually works on his cars or not.

Get better results with a card scraper and some paste wax tips. Plus favorite furniture and tools, and the down-low on calculating the load-bearing strength of wood for projects (hint: ditch the calculator).

*Web Producer's Note - Apoligies to the 765 people who downloaded the podcast in the first two hours it was up. I had an audio issue and you were hearing two Matt's after 15 minutes. The problem is fixed and a new file is ready for you to download. Apologie

Matt schools Ben in the art of the tool bomb, and Tom has a senior moment. Plus, converting a jack to a scrub, cedar balls to the rescue, and a rust surprise under the cherry scraps.

Matt lays down the law on spelching in the shop. Plus super glues for woodworking, when to save scraps, and favorite furniture and tools of all time... for this week.

Garrett Hack replaces Mike... for this week. Plus left- vs. right-handed benches, advice on flattening blades, and finally, the big question: can you straighten wood with steam?